I have spent the last three days running a How to Climb Harder Course for one climber who wanted to imporve his climbing. He already led up to VS and we focus on finding what he needed to do to start pushing through the grades.
On the first day we headed to Tremadog and climbing One Step in the Clouds, Grim Wall Direct, Merlin Direct, Yogi and the first Pitch of Grim Wall. We focused on improving his technique and getting him to start breaking a route down into chunks and planning the climb as he progressed. By the end of the day James was climbing a lot more smoothly.
The second day due to the weather we went sports climbing at Castle Inn Quarry, which meant that I could let James do some leading. He led 7 routes there up to F5+ and was looking very comfortable putting the technique and tactics in practice. It soon clouded over and we broke for lunch in the nick of time, as the heavens opened. After a brief stop at Penmean Head where it also rained and we headed to the Ormes and climb Green Flash and Mumbo Jumbo. These were great for getting James to learn how to deal with roofs and overhangs.
Finally today we headed back to Tremadog and after a damp ascent of Poor Man Peurterey, we headed up Scratch. Where the sun came out and dried everything off, so James lead the top pitch whilst I coached him up it. After that I abseiled down and arranged some gear below the roof of Scratch Arete.
James then lead up to the roof, got psyched up and did exactly what I said attacking the overhang and moved quickly through it to jugs and gear. After that he was home and dry and had lead HVS. To finish the day off I ran up Rio before heading back to Beddgelert for Ice Creams. I hope and believe that James’ climbing definitie improved over the three days and more importantly he has some exercises to go away with to continue the improvement in hos technique and a process to fall back on to tactically plan an ascent.
If you’d like to find more about the rock climbing coaching courses in run in North Wales then follow the link.