If like most climbers in the UK (if not further afield) then there is a seasonality to our climbing that if we want to make the most out of our cragging year, then we need to learn to tame and master the ebb and flow of performance.
Thankfully with the development of indoor climbing, the chance are that you are at your strongest around this time of year, all those nights training indoor, are good for strength, and endurance. However when you dare to step outside and feel the warm glow of the sun on your skin, then it can become very apparent that despite being strong, and having better endurance, apparently your actual ‘rock’ climbing ability has plummeted.
In order to make the ‘transition’ from indoor to outdoor climbing as smooth as possible there are many things you can do. The first is be realistic with yourself, drop the grade and accept that you won’t be leading the same grade as you were at the end of the season.
The second step is to put aside 2 to 3 days for a shakedown. By this, I mean a bit like those rich people who own yachts, they store them over winter, and then spend the spring making ready, changing things around, renewing old and tire ropes. So to do we have to have a tidy up and shake down of our climbing vessel.
You probably haven’t seen a wire for the last few months, let alone tried to place one in anger. Similar you have spent the winter standing on massive bolt on holds indoor, outdoors those footholds are not only smaller but also not coloured brightly for you to find them.
As such the first to things you need to focus on are ‘finding your feet’ and ‘getting you eye in’ for gear placements. In order to do this, every year I drop the grade right back and attack cliffs, ticking many classics I have climbed many times before.
Having climbed the routes before, you will have a greater confidence in being successful, it also is great should you find it easier then you expect. It also means you can focus on the processes of looking for and using footholds, and look for and placing gear as quickly and efficiently as possible.
Expect the first route to be much harder than you think it will be, and don’t be dishearten. Slowly increase the grade and you’ll quickly move back to where you were last year.
Another trick I use often on the second or third day of shaking myself back into rock climbing, is to deliberately make routes harder, by not moving off steep section, and hanging about and trying to recover in places where I can easily get out because there is a ledge just above or just below.
Basically, I am getting the body used to hanging out and getting pumped, using my feet properly and getting a eye for gear so I can get as many first time placements as possible.
Early Season Mileage Rules
- Drop the grade right back.
- Focus on footwork.
- Focus on getting an ‘eye’ for gear placements.
- Increase grade slowly
- Practice hanging out and recovering when a ledge is close at hand should you get too pump.
- Think about repeating routes you’ve climbed before to limit any surprise.