Coaching on Dream

A great example of using a high and low rope when completing traverses.
A great example of using a high and low rope when completing traverses.

Arguably it is a little bit out there to be ‘coaching’ someone, however yesterday I headed out to Wen Zawn with a friend, who was a bit rusty with her climbing. Having been climbing the day before I thought a classic day out would be nice, so headed over to climb Dream of White Horses.

I lead the first ptich, and she lead the last pitch, she was worried about rope management issues with climbing a pitch that virtually traverse 1/3 of a bowl. So whilst she lead I offered advice on managing the ropes to minimise rope drag. As she walked across this intimidating pitch she eventually got her eye in and started making great decisions on her own.

Basically on this and many other traverses you need to have a high and low rope, rather than the left and right ropes that you associate with normal double rope leading on more vertically aligned routes.

If your interested in being guided, coached or instructed on some of Wales classic routes then visit Snowdonia mountain guides website.

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