It is a bit like a buffet the slate, you can pick and choose from a massive variety of routes some of which compliment each other and others go together like milk and orange juice. Today I took a big bit from a few old faithful combinations in Vivian Quarry.
So after we climbed psychotherapy(E2), as a team were on the start of the combo route we planned. We started up Mental Lentils (HVS), just as my second was about to head up we had a third join us. So we added to our number and blasted off. Next was Monster Kitten (E1), then Too Bald to Be Bald (E2) which unfortunately was my lead. I should really arrange thing better, but it is a question of what is the shortest straw. Too Bald… or Monster Kitten, both have there moments.
Too Bald… was the hardest route I have lead for months, I was glad I put on my tight rock boots for it. It went quite smoothly all things considered, good to know I can still rock over.
We did then send a leader up Is It A Crime (E2), where upon I think I shouted up at them “Get a move on, and not for our sake!”. The reason being that the rain was about to start and from my position I could see that it wasn’t going to be a light passing shower.
So that was how I spent saturday more. I then headed out to Anglesey and managed a 2 hour surf. A real good swell coming into Cable, and it was working reasonably well even with the tide right out. I am now rather goosed and looking forward to another day surfing tomorrow.
So a few years ago I started a brief trend of running up the East Face of Vivian Linking the Levels, via what I dubbed the Sunchaser Wall, as done after work you were often fighting to stay ahead of the rising shade. Those routes though are mainly trad, so today looking for a quick hit in the afternoon, as I was off surfing this evening, so we headed up to Australia.
The route we did was a direct start to Looning the Tube, which is a F6bish sport route into LtT. Given you only need one cam 2.5 for that route, it was almost like a sport route. We then climbed Steps of Glory F5, some random route on the Siding F5. We then joined Grand Day out on a F6a+ pitch before heading up Feeling Rusty F6a+which was quite hard to finish for someone my height and then finished on Plastic Solders or the other route.
All in all 6 pitches of sport climbing (only one cam 2.5 needed), quite varied although it is a good calf and toe workout. As we topped out I made comment about the weather turning as the cloud was building over the Glyders. So we got a wiggle on and got back to the van as it started to rain lightly. We then had coffee and a cake in V12, the poor guy who got sent out for milk returned soaked to the skin.
So a great few routes fitted in Between the Rain. I then headed over to Anglesey and surfed for a couple of hours. Nice clean 2-3ft sets with enough time to get out in-between, couple with off-shore winds. I had to come in after 2 hours as my arms were running on empty and I couldn’t paddle to catch a wave. Although for an hour I was pretty much the only person out looping back and forth continually.
You have got to love North Wales for days like that.
So today I ran the second of the workshops of how to replace lower offs on the slate. This time I had two members of the Association of Mountaineering Instructors who are also from the joint services centre in the area along with two more of there instructors.
They were a great bunch and all donate £20 to the bolt fund which would have just paid for the bit they placed whilst doing some ‘on the job’ training. We managed to replace another four lower off on the sidings. There are still four lower that need replacing on this popular level.
Again, I have run two days for AMI, and I am happy to run more for AMI instructors or experienced climbers who might want to get involved with re-equipping the lower off with resin anchors.
Again details of what has been replaced and what hasn’t can be found on Snowdonia Mountain Guides – Fixed Gear report page
So I gave the first bolting workshop for the Association of Mountaineering Instructors, I had a local instructor Jez Brown and the AMI development Officer Steve Long along. I am also running a full course tomorrow for the Joint Services. Hopefully this will get more people involved with the re-equipping in the quarries and elsewhere.
Today we finished replacing all the lower offs in the level above Looning the Tube and below the Sidings. There is a list of what has been done on my website.
If anyone one else who is either a member of AMI, MTA or just an experience local climber who wants to learn how to test and replace a lower off. I am happy to arrange another days training, although you really do need to be and experienced climber and able to look after yourself at height to come along. The cost of the training is £20 donation to the North Wales Bolt Fund.