Meeting a Legend….

So when I first started to rock climb I lived near Swanage and for years I never had a guidebook to the area. The old yellow one was out of print and so my only recourse at the time was to turn to South West Climbs by Pat Littlejohn. The adventures I had with that book as I started to climb are still dear to me. My first trad leads at Subliminal, a early adventure to The Dewerstone and Chudliegh on Dartmoor.

It for me defined my climbing pre-moving to Wales for university. From time to time I head down south and pick another classic route from its pages. Although it is a little dated now.

Pat then was one of the first modern names of rock climbing I knew. His routes down in the more adventurous parts of the South West were, well to be quite frank, out of my league and most still are. Like any legendary climber you tend to build them up to be something they are not.

I have since had the pleasure of running into Pat a few times over the years, either through BMC committee, local issues like the paint in Cwm Tregallan above and most recently over climbing on the Llyn. After a few messages back and forward we met to discuss a future project on the Llyn and it sounds really exciting. I can’t wait to help develop a resource for climbers for this really adventurous area.

An area that Pat is highly passionate about and to be frank is probably the leading protagonist of. Having done around 40 routes since he published the latest supplement to the area, which to be honest was already full of routes he had done since the last guide.

So in a nut shell we are hoping to develop a wiki-type site on NorthWalesRock.com with the hope of sharing all those great adventures on the Llyn.

For me it was great to get a feel for what Pat wants to develop over time and at the same time to sit down and have a conversation with one of the best adventure climbers in the world about a subject that lights him up.

The classic Bardsey Ripple

Busy at Play…Child’s Play!

So since returning from Costa Blanca where I was climbing 7a on sight. I have continue to mix it up between trad and sport. Climbing many routes around the E3/4 mark on different rock type and also some sport climbs on the slate and Limestone.

Whilst I managed to flash a 7a on the Limestone when I nipped up Quicksilver as well as leading an E4 or two plus some 6c+s. As such I feel the fitness remains and have managed to switch back between trade and sport really easily.

Simon Lake on Jack of Shadows, E4/6c+ on Colossus Wall, Dinorwic Slate Quarries

On the Slate I managed one day to onsight a 7a+ and then do the the amazing route Cig-Arete on my third go and my first proper redpoint attempt. This has been followed up with a play on Child’d Play a 7b+, where I got the moves, so need to go back and link it.

I also onsighted the amazing Great Balls of Fire, E4 on Colossus wall. It has been a good few months since I got back and mingled in-between this has been some great and varied work.

About to follow Si Lake up Belldance, E5 6b on the Dervish slab. I took the lob from just below where he is on this route!