More Classics and one ruined view

Me on the outrageous top pitch of Tantalus, Tremdog. A hidden gem of an E1.

Another great day today, blue skies and sunshine for the early birds. I headed to the Gwynant with Si and we climbed Gallop Step a classic HVS traverse that starts and finishes at the base of the cliff and follows a rainbow like arch below an overhang.

We then drove round Meol Siabod and climbed on Craig Adar, it is a totally stunning crag but one which is hidden. Access is in my mind brilliant, as where else do you have to knock on the door of the local farmer and ask whether you can climb on his crag. He will only let up to four people on at a time. He seemed a really nice guy and I can totally see why he doesn’t want hords of climbers crashing the peace and tranquility that you find on his land.

I didn’t take any pictures here, but the crag is really spectacular although the easiest of the best lines is E2 which itself keeps most climbers away. We did the one of these and it is steep yet most of the climbing is in balance.

Me on Gallop Step in Nant Gwynant another fine gem in the second prettiest valley we visited that day.Si on Gallop StepCraig Dhu Wall, personally the classic view is somewhat marred by the new hospital.

Back in the 21st Century

Well that was probably the longest time I have not regularly written about the the day to day life I live in North Wales. The short story is I bought a house moved in and had to wait for a month to get broadband up and running.

I’d like to say that I have spent the time out climbing, however I am sad to say I know a lot more about DIY now than I did 4 weeks ago. Take today, nice enough to get out for a quick route, but I choose to remove part of my kitchen and rebuild it. The day before I made shelves and had to cut two large pieces of wood in half with a hand saw, knackering work and I am now a 9mm rope short as I used it to hang said shelves.

The closest I seem to have come to climbing was onto the roof of the house to install a new aerial and see what I need to do to the chimney to repair it. The month of line also means I was unable to work on the rockfax guide. Although team rockfax came up here and we managed to get a few crag shots and action shots for the guide. Which is looking great.

I have also managed to write a few things for Climber Magazine that should appear over the next few months. So keep your eyes out for the Fear Test next month.

Hopefully getting away from the DIY tomorrow for some coastal climbing, I am in the process of review a few pairs of climbing shoes for UKC so I have three of the four pairs to work through, before rushing back to get a double, double glazing sales pitch as I have two companies coming round two hours apart, my bet is they turn up together.

Hopefully back on here some more, although I doubt I have been missed.


Sorry for the lack of blogging but I bought my very first house at the beginning of may. Exciting and scary times are ahead. In moving I have been without interweb for some four weeks. Hopefully this will be sorted by next week.

So whilst I have managed to get out climbing I have been trying to use the time to get some major DIY projects done and dusted. My hope is the house will look good enough for a house warming/birthday party on the 25th June.

Other than that I have had a very productive month working on the new Rockfax north Wales selective guidebook. With a team meeting last week we think it might be possible to get the book ready for Christmas.

I think the last time I blogged was well over 4 weeks ago when I took the massive Belldance lob. Not a day goes I am not thinking of a friend to many of north Wales’ finest who on that same day had a massive accident and is still in intensive care.

His accident coinciding with my own has left me very much wondering about fate. Of all the people I know it could potentially have been anyone of us who got struck down that day or any other. Five weeks of updates on his health has lead to waves of hope and dispair amongst my friends and I.

I don’t pray but my thoughts and those of others are with him daily. We can only hope that he starts to turn a corner no matter how small, it is baby steps from here.

In the mean time I have to prepare to head out on a three day ml assessment at the end of the week. A few day off DIY duties. Hopefully back online next week.