Well I had another day out climbing, as the weather is just so good at the moment. Today was Vivian, after a usual warm up on Psychotherapy (If I had a £1 for every time I climbed this route, I might have enough to pay to park in the Slate Museum Car Park), we then went round the corner to Weetabix Connection area.
Weetabix connection is a funny route, given F6c, it feels like E4 to lead onsight, yet about F6b to redpoint. So I put the clips in with some extension on some so you could clip the bolt before you did the crux rather than from half way through it. I then let Si have a go, he got it second go after his foot popped of a hold.
I then went back up the route and lower down Two Bolts or Not to Be, a great F7b, that I have fallen off before. Well if I am honest I jumped off after I had done all the hard moves, and was about to rockover onto the slab, and got scare. Today, I tried to work the moves out and managed all but one on a rope with some old climbing boots on. The crux is a very long way for me, although be short helps step up onto very high holds.
The move is a big reach for a inch deep shot-hole, that I managed to scare on a couple of occassions today, but not actually reach. So I left and went to the climbing wall for some extra training. After the last two days, there are parts of my body that are hurting that haven’t done so for a while.
In the words of Stevie Haston I need to ‘Training More, Try Harder and Eat less’, although kebab and chips for tea with a Foster’s chaser isn’t going to help that much!
I am hoping to book a boat for Thursday to take some crag shots for the RockFax guidebook, around Gogarth. Just me on the boat at the moment, hopefully the weather holds.