I headed out today hoping to find some goof weather over on anglesey, we head to the new crags developed on the east coast. Some easy sports climbing was what I was after. So we headed straight for Fisherman’s Zawn, as the tides were right as long as we went there first. The water was only just out enough, but a bolted belay lead straight down to a small dry ledge. We climbed the route graded F5, I think it could probably warrant a + if the truth be known, it was a reasonable pull up the wall to reach good holds again. We then did the VS to the right which is fine with a a rack of wires and a few quickdraws.
What was more interesting was a couple of weeks ago some scally from the caravan site was sitting in their parents car listening to their MP3 phone, when she dropped it so reached over into the foot well and released the handbrake. She managed to jump Hollywood style out of the car just as it was about to launch over the edge of the cliff. Now this made the national news. However like scally’s everywhere they are prone to littering, and now their Ford Galaxy is the newest tourist attraction for the rest of the scally’s in the caravan site. Not for looking at but for throwing a variety of different size rocks onto the roof.
Now when we went down there were several groups of Yoffs, throwing rock from all over the zawn, not to mention a group of four yoffs drink at the cliff edge. So abseiling in there was more than the average amount of objective danger. It was like down town Baghdad as the thuds of rocks hitting the wrecked car reverberated in the zawn. I had to climb quick as well because the four yoffs were eyeing up my rucksack for goodies.
So with that stress it was really great that by the top of the second route, probably around 20 minutes in total it started to rain. I am beginning to think that it will never stop, well not until 2012. On the way back we stopped in the Panton Inn, shabby on the outside and very well laid out on the inside, as if it was trying to be a gastro pub, unfortunately given the food i ate they forgot to employ someone who can cook!
So it was back for boredom and TV. I’ll put some photos of the day up later.