For some reason it happens every year to a greater or lesser extent. This year it seems greater than before probably because I have turned to a new sport to see me through the long dark nights and short invariable wet days. But today the swell was insignificant, and the sun was set the shine, so there seemed like I had run out of excuses and had to jump back on board the trad climbing horse.
I worked out it had been over three months since my last trad climb. I think that might be a record, as I usually have a few days climbing work even in the autumn/winter. This year I have had essentially three months off, after I worked myself hard getting North Wales Climbs to the printers in time for christmas. Surfing also gave me much need time of climbing to recharge the psych a little.
So today dusted off my rack and set to racking up at the base of Tremadog. Which was disappointing damp. We chose to start up Striptease a steep and engaging VS, that was slightly damp in places but still manageable and pleasant. Gear went in with relative ease although I was all fingers and thumbs initially, it was possible the awkwardness of placing a cam behind my left ear that made me nearly drop a cam!
Anyway after that we abseil down and cherry picked the top pitches of One Step in the Clouds, which it lap 1 for this year. It is still amazing as ever. llion climbed through the usual belay after the fresh remains of a jackdaw were strewn everywhere. I hope no one is squeamish but the bottom photo is for gross out factor, One for the Crows!
Anyway, the sun came out, rock was climbed and I re-introduced myself trad climbing. Something that is good to do each year after the winter. Ticking easy and familiar routes that dust the cobwebs away. If you want to get the best out of your trad climbing year then I advise you try the same, or better still come on a Performance Climbing Course with Snowdonia Mountain Guides, where we can set you off in the right direction on the correct path to give you the best chance of climbing those routes you have dreamed of climbing for years but never seem to have developed the confidence to lead them.
