A day of two halves

Direct Route, Dinas Mot, LLnaberis Pass
The classic final crux pitch of Direct Route, Dinas Mot, LLnaberis Pass

So my day has been a busy one. As I had to get up and do some admin work of sending invoices into various people, which is always good, as it results in getting paid and sadly probably a carpet or some new flooring in the bathroom.

I then headed up the pass and climbed Direct Route, which is just stunning. A classic is every sense of the word. With two iconic pitches the hand traverse and the final groove. I got to lead it all as I was out with a friend who doesn’t climb that much. It seemed the rest of the world was shade bathing on the Mot, as I probably spent longer waiting in a queue for the ab than climbing the route.

I then headed home for rehydration before heading up the pass again. This time to Scimitar ridge, where I climbed Cheron, a great E2 up a corner to the right of the also great Troy. It is a great and technical route which keeps coming at you, although a lot of that is the amount of gear you are throwing in above your head nearly all the way up it.

Scimitar Ridge. Llanberis Pass.
The awesome Trot on Scimitar Ridge. Llanberis Pass.

We then abseiled back down Killerkranky and I had another top rope, managing to make the initial crux this time and then plug my way up the hold to the top. Simon joke the next time there we will have to put on our big boy pants. As we have done all the easy routes now!

 

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