I was out working yesterday with the Bangor Uni ODA students. They had the option of a scrambling day or a sport climbing day. Some of the students had sport climbed before whilst others had only done a limited amount leading indoors. So I choose to head over to Castle Inn and as I was about to leave the centre I remembered there had been some access issue there so texted Elfyn, as we could always head elsewhere.
The wind was from the South East, and this meant that unlike normal in Llandudno where it gets drier instead it was claggier. We managed to get about three route done before it rained. So we top roped those lines working on technique whilst waiting for it to dry up. After about an hour we gave up with the idea of doing some rope work at the centres climbing wall.
However driving back the weather brightened up so we made a bee line for Bus Stop quarry and we managed another couple of routes before we ran out of time. I sometimes forget that since a boom in easy sport climbing routes, that there are more and more places we can go.
With about three decent easy sports venues in the Slate quarries, a good couple of venues on North Wales limestone suited to beginners, plus the harder sports climbing routes both here and on anglesey now. North Wales has some great places to make the transisition from indoor leading to outdoor sport climbing.
As such we covered those skills that are important, first off I got the group to use the clip stick reach the first bolt. Whilst not essential, a clip stick can make reaching hte first bolt a less nerve wracking thing. We also showed them how to pull the ropes but leave the first bolt clipped for the next leader.
We also go the group to brush up on re-threading lower-off. Whilst this isn’t really needed that much at Castle Inn as the routes have crabs in the lower offs. I was needed at Bus Stop and two of the group had a go a threading real lower offs under my watchful eye.
It was a great day out and makes you realise that North Wales is no longer just a trad climbing destination, but a great place to learn to sport climb. If you are stuck indoors and would like to make the transition to outdoor sport climbing, then Snowdonia Mountains Guides offer a great Sport Climbing Course for just this reason.