I am current in Devon on a very last minute dot com trip to try and find some dry rock. It has involved an awful lot of driving. We started at 10am and pretty much drive through rain all the way to the Culm coast, named after the slate type rock that abounds.
After a shower last night and waiting for the tide to drop this morning I grew very impatient and climbed the rut arête of the classic black church rock. A nice VS in hideous condition. I nearly slipped off the biggest ledge ever such was they dampness.
We then played a waiting game and eventually I gave up and racked up and went for Sacre Coeur one of the best lines in the south west. E2 going on E3 in today’s conditions. As if I wasn’t setting myself up for a fall anyway the bottom was soaking wet to the crux where the rock was merely damp. I also forgot my chalk bag although I doubt chalk would have helped. As such I had to place lots of gear and ran out by the top.
So I was face with the dilemma try and place gear and not extending or if in don’t run it out. I took option b which I don’t recommend. I was looking at a 10m plus lob as I lined up for an all out slap for the top. I prayed that it be a jug otherwise it was going to be the shortest dynamic upward movement followed by one of the longest downwards I would have taken in a while.
The jug delivered I topped out, although technically I did fall on the route after a foot popped but fortunately my bomber finger lock on my broken/bruised fingers from winter climbing stayed put not without a lot of pain!
A lovely place and seeing that it is half term the place is empty, so I recommend a visit down here based on this one route, if you like slate you’ll love culm.