Well, last night I head to the Cromlech Boulders for a quick boulder. A good scene although we had to run away from the crowds and hide on the left hand blocks. Almost too hot to pull hard, but a nice session ticking the usual circuit.
Then this evening I headed up into Cwm Glas and climbed the Stebbing. A nice E2 on main wall of the area. Although this area is rarely in condition which is apparent by the ample moss and lichen. After that we went to a more obscure area, one that I had avoided for years, mainly because after one look I was disappointed.
Si wanted to climb Sugar and Spice an E4 next to Famous Grouse, after a friend recommended it. Now take from this what you will but having heard who the recommendation came from my internal alert siren was wailing. In that it was likely to be any route that person had got up or failed on, and turn lyrically by the recommender into the best route in the world.
There are many people like this who’s enthusiasm over comes them and every route is the best in the world. Whilst they are refreshing to climb with bringing with them enough psych for everyone. My old and ageing bones and a rigorous route filter that is highly tuned means I rather dully spend my life climbing the classics. I can’t rememeber the last time I climbed a no star route.
Anyway Simon got commited and grabbed for the insitu thread half way through the crux. I later found out that the recommender fell of instantly after clipping the thread. So whilst the climb was on nice rock it was rather lichenous and too short to be any good in my book. I’ll put some photos up on my Facebook page later.