Last night Pete Robin made the first ascent of the new link of Wild Understatement into Youthansia. A link he had been trying for a while, and had only been denied an ascent when we were there last week and the weekend by really hot weather. Yesterday even was a different story as the cool breeze had dried the crag reasonably well and the temps were spot on for climbing.
I even managed a near redpoint of Night Glue, but forgot how to do the upper wall, D’oh! Pete comment that the route was about F8b+, but was hard to grade given the ‘vertical’ nature of the climbing, which is extremely technical. Take Pete’s words with a pinch of salt though as whilst it may be rather vertical for 8b+ as you can see from the photo above it ain’t that vertical in places.
A great effort for Pete and the rest of us mere mortals were left to flonder around like a fish out of water. Fall Off you say, but I am a trad climber! How do I unlearn a lifetime of telling myself never to fall off? Ever!