Busy day on Slate

Well you had to be there to see just how busy slate is at the moment, Bank Holiday Monday at Looning the Tube resemble a climbing wall, with virtually every route swaming with climbers. I went there with Hosey, we started on Pruning the Tube, which I gibbed the top out due to vegetation, however i climbed a much more logical line still about E2, I have dubbed it Exhuming the Tube, which basically keeps on traversing to the final bolt on Gerboa Racer and then finishes up this route, probably the best route on the slab to be honest!

We then climbed a new route that was sadly escapable, as it looked like you climbed the arete left of turn of the century E2. Hyperfly was given 6b, howewer it is more like F6a, with the crux low down. We also climbed Just for Fun, The burning, Goose creatures. Before Moony turn up and climbed a couple of my easy routes in the area.

I then ran up looning the tube a great HVS, before heading down to the village for a well earned Georgio’s Ice Cream, and a short rest before meeting up with Llion who had Flashdance in his sight.

Llion wandered his way up the slab looking very steady until the final point of no return above the RP’s. He stayed there for a little longer than was comfortable for a belay. Building nup the confidence to commit to a rockover onto his left foot, and as soon as he had done it he was at the Dervish in a flash. An awesome onsight for llion, and continuing his run of form on the Slate.

After that a BBQ at Huw’s was what the doctor ordered. Another great day!

Planning a Trip

There is only one thing that comes close to going on a trip and that is planning one. Fortunately in this day and age the planning has become easier and easier, due mainly to the wonders of google and the world wide web. So today I have been looking at some new American venues to visit either before or after my Yosemite trip.

My plan so far has been to start in New York, and go via the Gunks, a small but interesting looking crag, before heading south to the New River Gorge. From there I am unsure where to go, as I was wanting to work my way across the north of America to the west coast, inparticular calling in at the Devils Tower, and other classic routes, on my way to Yosemite, in mid september.

At present The Grand Tetons looks like it will be worth a visit, as well as city of rocks, Idaho and Smith Rocks, Oregon.

Anyway, I am interested in any ideas that people either this side or the other side of the Atlantic might have for other venues or must do routes in these locations.