The last couple of days I have been out on the slate looking for a local project to try and climb. My main problem is that whilst the hard slate sports route are great, and some of the move amazing, many have been ‘created’ for those a damn sight taller and often a lot strong than me.
As such so far I have eliminated Manic Strain, as some of the moves are just too long and hard for me<Ohhh Missus>. Similarly, Cwms The Dogfish, had a couple of moves that even when I got the hold I was aiming for my feet were off the holds I was planning to reach them from. The Dark Destroyer felt the same, although I believe that most of the really long reaches ended on a good crimp, so felt like I good actually jump through these reaches, although it is mighty sustained at the top.
I got on Tru Clip today, a route that i have flashed on a top-rope before, and for some reason, I could touch several of the moves. So I am now left with a very short list. I need to work the top crack on Gin Palace but that should hopefully go, as well as get back on Forinsain Motspur, and get a sequence that works for the bottom crux. Other than that I am planning on looking at Misogynist…., The Dark Half, Exocet and the sports route in the bottom of Twll Mawr.
I have borrow Hosey shunt, so I can work these routes without boring my belayers to death. Besides i have bruised finger tips, a strained big left toe and aches in muscles that I forgot I have, I must try harder.