Bardsey Island and an incoming Squall.
Martin Chester crosses the Bardsey Ripple
Hidden away at the end of the Llyn peninsular, looking out across to the remote Bardsey Island is a small crag that packs a big punch. Only 60ft high this compact and complex buttress harbours one of the best single pitch E2’s in Wales. It is the Rock Idol of North Wales, steep juggy and intricate. The rock resembles a classic loose horrorshow, however when climbing on it the rock feels far more solid than it looks. I have climbed the route twice, and would go back again and again, if it wasn’t for the magical mystery tour of sleepy hollows that leads along the extremely long and winding road.
The route takes a rising right to left traverse of the crag, following a quartz band as if someone had whitewashed the way to go. Today the sea was high to say the least when we got there so we opted for a high traverse line into the route starting up the Eyes Have it, before reaching the main streak of the Bardsey Ripple. The climbing is amazing, although a little damp today, and after making it across the first traverse Martin the allotted leader got caught out in driving rain, so an undramatic rescue later and we were all back at the bottom looking at our ropes that traversed half the crag.
As we dripped water, and watched waterfalls start running over the crag we thought the day might me up. Patience is a virtue, and given that it was the first day climbing for ourselves in ages we toughed it out, waited for the sun to dry the crag, and then lowered the leader back into the traverse and finished the route. We then climbed an equally steep E2 5b up the obvious right facing corner, although most of the climbing is on the largest holds in the known universe on the wall to the right. We finished the day as another squall looked like it was heading towards us, and made for the pub, and just reward.
You really should get down and try this E2, it is so good for a single pitch, and unlike many of the Llyn horrorshows, as it is reasonable solid and has gear. To me it has classic qualities, and reflects adventure climbing at it very best.