Quickdraw: This could save your live

There was an accident recently, and having spoken to the rescue team that were present at the scene, there was a question as to the cause of the accident, as it appear that the quickdraw had failed yet hadn’t. It reminded me of a problem that I had been shown a few years ago, when many climbers used elastic band to ‘retain’ the carabiner that clips into the rope. I still use this technique however this is a word of caution, and perhaps the reason for the recent accident.

What I would like to emphasis that this was just an accident, no one was to blame, however passing on this knowledge seems like a responsible thing to do, because even if it helps saves one person it seems better than waiting for it to happen again.

A quickdraw with a band to retain the carabiner that clips into the rope when climbing.

Now imagine that when in your bag it gets twisted up and the tape accidentally gets clipped into that retained carabiner.

You take the quickdraw out of your bag and straighten it up and it looks fine.

However, from the other side, the quickdraw isn’t fine!

All that is keeping the carabiner in place is an elastic band, so if you weight the quickdraw, then instantly it fails.

Most modern quickdraws are stitched through now so this can’t happen, however if like myself you like open loop quickdraws, and use elastic carabiners, just remember to check them a little more thoroughly, and take note of how they look when the they have messed themselves up.

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