Gogarth is the best crag on earth, however what is the best crag at the best crag. Such a decision is hard if not impossible, However there are a few front runners like Main Cliff, Wen Zawn, Red Walls, Castell Helen, Yellow Wall and Llawder. Now whilst argument for and against many of these venues are numerous and often based on experience rather than a scientific checklist of things a truly great crag needs to have. Unlike a Blue Flag beach, where water quality can be measured, toilets counted and sand graded, a crag however won’t succumb to these ridged criteria.
So first up I offer you Castell Helen, which the hardcore of Gogarth Devotee will disallow due to lack of any real hard climbing. However they haven’t been strapped to the main overhangs, at the business end of the crag. Free Stonehenge a Stevie Haston E7 would put the toughest climber to the test. Where as the everyman side of the crag has some of the easier routes at Gogarth, as well as some of the most well travelled routes. In fact if popularity was the measure then this would be the best crag at gogarth.
Dave Rudkin on the Easy pitch of Free Stonehenge E7 6b
Sadly though despite being a 30 second walk downhill from the car park, the lack of hieght and commitment required on the majority of its routes, probably would prevent it from win a the Gogarth.