I have a morning Constitution it revolves around porridge, coffee and checking my emails and seeing whats new on UKC. Most days its takes a short time, as I often have no emails and nothing has happened on UKC. This morning was another such morning, no emails, but UKC had the headline Top American Alpinists Killed in China, now I don’t know that many American Alpinists, but over the years I have shared a beer with one or two in various bizarre situations.
My heart sank when I saw Johnny’s name appear, and a tear came to my eye. I had meet Johnny in the Cirque of the Unclimbable and he had been a energy source that seemed to lift the entire meadow. He and his climbing partner at the time Josh were unstoppable, they notch up rapid ascents of the Lotus Flower Tower, and the regular route up Proboscis both in a day. The Proboscis route was very impressive as most people camp at the bottom having made the arduous approach, not Johnny and Josh, they ran there and were back to tell the tale by tea time.
They then went onto free Parrot Beak Peak, via a line that me and my climbing partner Steve were hoping to free. We were at the summit of the Lotus Flower Tower when they trundled a 40ft flake off the last pitch. It took us a while to realise that the screams were of excitement having seen the block strafe the cliff, and disintegrate. Johnny and Josh laughing like hyenas at the top of the climb.
Having met Johnny briefly as he was starting his epic quest for the ultimate alpine route it is a sad day, and one where one of life’s brightest stars has faded. My condolences go out to all that knew johnny, and his two partners that died in this tragedy. My thanks also go to the Chinese climbers who recovered his and Micah body from such a dangerous position, it is never easy work.
For further details visit climbing’s news page.