Craig Y Castell – Tremadog

The plan had been to climb in the pass, however two things stood in the way, firstly there was a hurricane blowing down the valley when I got up, and secondly we’d have to waste another hour waiting for the bus to take us up there. Instead we went to Tremadog, where arriving a Eric’s Cafe we were met with a third problem, the number of people at Blwch Y Moch that day was shocking.

In an attempt to escape the crowds we went onto Craig Y Castell, forgetting that the new guide and at least one article had mentioned this crag. So it was a surprise to find about five teams there. Although the majority were doing Creag Dhu Wall. We decided to do One Step in the Crowds, a classic E1, that I had never done before. So I lead the first pitch, and what a pitch, a really amazing route. The pull round the first roof is interesting, whilst the second roof, although not technically the crux, is both commiting, exposed and fantastic. It is probably one of the best E1 in Wales.

Llion ran up the second pitch and back at the ground we scouted about for some more routes to climb. As I went below the first pitch of the Wasp, I realised there was another gapping hole in my climbing CV, so racked up ready to do battle. The guide simply says climb the crack, sometimes strenuous. To be honest it should read climb the strenuous crack, at times very struously! Another great route, well pitch and just liek the name suggest there is a sting in the tail. Although I managed to safe some beans for it.

Llion went for the top pitch but was rappeled off, so there are a few wires and crabs in the top pitch if anyone is interested?