Monthly Archives: April 2009

Mark Vallance’s Thesis

Mark Vallance is one of the key volunteers for the BMC, he is involved with many facets of their work, and was interested in the report on coaching by the NSG, so turn up to ask a few questions at … Continue reading

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Declumsification: Johnny Dawes

I was in the Gallt Y Glyn last night and amongst the other people who were in there was Johnny Dawes. We managed to get him talking about what he does on his coaching workshops. Now this is only one … Continue reading

Posted in Climbing, Coaching, Coaching skills, imagery, Johnny Dawes, mental skills, Rock Climbing, Self talk, Self-belief, Skill Acquisition, Technique, Uncategorized, visualisation | Tagged , , | Leave a comment

Top Tip: Abseil Stations

I have just put a small piece on abseil stations over on my Life in the Vertical blog. It covers a few things concerned with safety aspect of getting yourself off the top of a cliff. Tweet

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Top Tip: Lowering Off from the top of the cliff

Being lowered off the top of a cliff. I posted some pictures of one of the course I was working on last week, and someone asked why in one of the pictures the rope had been clipped through a carabiner … Continue reading

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Stevie Haston’s Brief Training Advice

Stevie Haston has long been an amazing climber, however he disappeared from the limelight a bit in favour of enjoying being a grandfather and the French/Spanish sun. However he re-ignited interest in his climbing when he made an ascent of … Continue reading

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Coaching: The New Buzz Word, but what does it mean?

Within our society we from time to time get buzz words, in government a few years back everything was about ‘community’, in sport it is all ‘Coaching’. The big problem is that one simple word can conjure up a very … Continue reading

Posted in Article, Climbing, Coaching, Coaching skills, Effective practice, Focus, goal setting, Goals, learning, Long term athlete development, mental skills, Rock Climbing, Skill Acquisition, Technique, Uncategorized | Tagged , , , | 4 Comments

Training For Climbing: Fear of Falling and Anxiety

Wes Hunter Controlling the Anxiety on Poetry Pink E5 6a, Rainbow Slab. In 1993 Jana Navotna was set to win wimbledon, she was 4-1 up in the final set, and then it all fell apart. The first sign of her … Continue reading

Posted in adventure, anxiety, Article, Climbing, Coaching, Coaching skills, Confidence, fear, leader falls, mental skills, Rock Climbing, Stress, Uncategorized | Tagged , , , | 1 Comment

Why would you need a coach/instructor/sport psychologist?

I got asked a question by a friend trying to play devils advocate to my work as a coach and instructor. I was stunned for a minute, but essentially offered the argument that for many people what a coach/instructor offers … Continue reading

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Early Season Shake down

Well, the UK has just had a few nice weekends where it has finally been possible to climb, I have also managed to get out after work and climb a few route. One of the things I try to do … Continue reading

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