Over the years I have probably climbed this combination of routes many different times and with many different combinations of routes. Today after a morning spent hacking code together I met up with Lakey for a quick hit. He had asked if we had left it too late in the day.
However with the days drawing, some sun in the sky and Vivian quarry a little more than a stones through away what had we got to lose. I suggested the East Face link up aka Sunchaser Wall. It was a link I dreamt up a few years ago and even added a bolt to help two route blend together better.
Si lead Mental Lentils and then I headed up the awkward and thin Monster Kitten. Followed by simon running up Too Bald to Be Bold, proving at least he wasn’t. I then ran up Last Tnago to finish. Four stella pitches climbed and 5 E points. It took us around two hours so we aren’t moving that slow after a few weeks hanging on axes.
As we bounced down the stairs back to the base and our bags I couldn’t help reflecting that despite having climbed the route many times, it is one route I simply never tire of. Whilst for many even the first pitch of mental lentils is there first adventure into the mixed trad/bolted lines of slate and a route many covet an ascent of.
The last pitch we climbed that day Last Tango in Paris is a classic of the slate, although everytime I climb it I can’t help thinking that it is not long for this world as the arete is slow edging towards the base of the quarry some 60+metres below. I just hope I am not below it or on it when it goes the distance!
This route is on the hallowed ground of the Dervish Slab, and as such it makes it onto so many climbers wish list. Yet to me it is my local crag and one of the few routes I have climbed hundreds of times. Like today a short hit either between work, after work or if I am lucky for work.
The sun looks set to shine for a few days and the rock will hopefully dry, if however you are still in winter mode then there are some high gullies that are still in conditions.
A massive thank you to the weather for stopping raining for a few days.
With it starting to feel like spring then you can always get psych for this route as it features in the free lite version of the North Wales Rock Android and iOS app. Avaialble via the app store or google play. You can also find link to the full app on these pages or via the send.
If you’d like to be guided up this monumentous route then have a look at Snowdonia Mountain Guides Guiding pages.