Life in the Vertical

Its official I have one more day of work before I head off to Bournemouth for a week before heading state side for a few weeks of climbing before heading south to work again. It must be my first holiday in over twelve months, the last one was the amazing US road trip I did with Llion last year. I am getting excited, although I have one last hurdle to overcome, and thats the leaving dinner in the Curry House tomorrow night.

Odds are high for me crying at some point during the evening. Until then I have just got to do one more day of teaching rock climbing with Andy Newton, before its party time!

My housemate tipped me off about this new series, I tuned in expected to see some Alain Robert esque film of Lucy Creamer soloing a few of the classic building of the UK. Sadly I was disappointed, as in reality the programme is little more than a architectural programme shot at height, and the only climbing was something more akin to industrial rope access.

That said the programme was enjoyable, more for the architectual history. As a firm fan of megastructures on discovery or Nat Geo, I enjoy a little edu-tainment. The first programme focused on Durham Cathedral. However for me I had already seen ancient megastructures earlier in the week, which had given a complete history to the development from the round arch to the pointed arch to over come problems of structural integrity. As such for me the programme covered little ‘new’ ground.

I also love the series ‘The Worlds Biggest Fixes’, and I am quite used to programmes featuring IRATA techniques. So whilst the programme was OK, for me it was walking in the wake of a few programmes that have covered the genre of both architecture and IRATA in far more impressive ways.

What I did find when trying to link to some info on the programme was Ian Burton’s website. He has been involved in On Sight and The Asgard Project. I encourage you to visit his site and look at his time lapse video. Totally stunning. You have  probably seen much of this footage before on these films, but it’s still impressive!

I have just read part of a inquest statement into the sudden death of a teenager in gorge. The full report is here, and makes interesting reading for anyone engaging in activities that include ‘jumping’ into water. I would see this to include gorge walking, sea level traversing and sea level traverses. The report notes that because these activities are reasonably new, that previous legislation inparticular the Young Persons Safety Act, that prompted the formation of AALA, now AALS (Adventurous Activities Licencing Service now part of the Health and Safety Executive HSE), doesn’t require a licence to undertake such activities.

In essence the report looks at what it considered to be an inappropriately risky jump into a pool of water, and that despite concerns raised by staff the Chief Instructor was insufficently qualified or experience to make the a judgement as to whether the activity was suitable for young people. The report mentions numerous times that the Abernethy Trust failed in my mind in their duty of care to implement robust safety guidelines and proceedures, inparticular not discussing the use of the higher pool jump with there technical expert, who acts as an independent expert for centres when they establish new activities, and helps centres make robust decisions on the safety of people in the centres care.

In particular to anyone who makes clients jump into water from height should read this report, as it highlights the reasons why this pool used by the Abernethy Trust was inappropriate. As it had a drop of 9.5 meters and required students to clear 1.5 meters to clear a rocky ledge.

I know of other centres that use similar configurations of jump where a student has to jump outwards to avoid impacting on rocks or submerged ledges to avoid injury. In the report it argues that this is totally in appropriate, as in the case the report has investigated the student tried to chicken out of the jump after they had committed to the leap. Something that is so unpredictable that it makes assessing such a risk impossible. On a previous occasion another jumper from the sight had slipped as they jumped, narrowly missing the same fateful ledge.

To me this report makes a clear and unarguable finding that for a jump site to be appropriate that a vertical fall from the take off platform should lead to a clean landing in the water, meaning the drop needs to be either vertical or overhanging. Similarly the take off point needs to be flat and easy to access. The needs to be no reliance on the student not slipping or not chickening out.

Similarly I would question the need to use a jump that is in the magnitude of 9.5m, as to what extent does this add to the ‘educational experience’ of the group, what message are you sending them away with and mainly why are you justifying such an activity.

Generally the idea of risk used in Outdoor Pursuits is to use what the profession refer to as apparent danger, in that we put students in a situation that is beyond there normal comfort zone, and make them feel like they are engaged in a risk activity, however the actual danger is reduced to near zero by safety proceedures and measures like safety ropes, helmets, bouyancy aids and even things like the choice of venue.

I can only feel great sorrow for the family of the young girl who lost her life in such terrible circumstances. Hopefully those that engage in such activities will read and take heed of all the advice and recommendations made by the report.

“It is already being heralded as the most significant live broadcast of a climb since Joe Brown & Chris Bonington were filmed climbing the Old Man of Hoy in the 1960’s.”

Its probably been one of the only live outside broadcast of climbing since then! A pure genius quote I thought, i guess one mans meat is another mans poison!.

There is some great background on the live broadcast on the BBC Scotland site – of particular note is the mention of the unenvironmental practice used in the Hoy Broadcast. If you visit the island, you can still see the line up which the BBC dragged tonnes of equipment up the hillside onto the plateaux. Mind you nowadays, all you probably need is a rucsac full of equipment rather than a barn full.

There was of course the other Dave Mac OB from 2008, that was postponed due to weather, so not sure if that counts. Anyway I am being distracted from packing!

The dynamic duo of Tim Emmet and Dave Mac, will be appearing at the Big Rock Climbing Centre in Milton Keynes on the 18th September, as part of the opening events. So if you can navigate your way through the world of roundabout, concrete cows and the biggest Tesco’s on Earth then you’ll be laughing as they be able to help you navigate you way up through the grades, as well as leave your jaw on the floor if you watch Tim’s Para-Alpinism show, because if climbing an alpine wall isn’t risky enough he then throws himself off the top of them.

I spoke to one of the route setter there last night and the wall sounds awesome, and opens today I think? Visit here (Bigrockclimbing.com) to find out more, about a wall that is a partnership between some local Milton Keynes Climbers and the owners of the Llanberis based Beacon Climbing Centre (imagine that commute!!). I can just see Steve and Gill playing paper, scissor, stone to see who has to head down there to cash up at the end of the week!

My Favourite vew from the top of one of my favourite routes. Sorry no prizes for guessing which route!

Well I set myself a challenge to enjoy the most of my short time left in Llanberis, and the weather obliged and was nice and sunny. So I managed to climb a few of my favourite routes over the last week. Inparticular another ascent of Sunchaser Wall in vivian meant I got to climb Comes the Dervish just one more time before I left.

My life has been pretty hectic, and I have managed to do a fair amount of socialising. The beer garden of the Padarn Lake was lovely on Friday Evening, followed by a BBQ at Huws. Not a good way to warm up for Bunney’s 40th Birthday last night, I had to leave at 11.30 as I was knackered. All the time in between seems to be taken up with washing clothes and trying to pack.

I did have to seam seal the portaledge yesterday, increasing the number of time I have put the ledge up to around 10 times.

Anyway I have two days work next week, and then I am off to Bournemouth to say hello and wave goodbye to my mum, before heading off to Yosemite.

I have attempted to watch the great climb on the BBC iPlayer the other night. I have to say that looking on UKC and the comments made, the first two hours left me a little under whelmed. Not because the climbing wasn’t good, just the boredom of the whole thing.

I have to say that the crux of the second pitch was immense, however watching Dave then struggle with every runner, then wait as they tried to fill 20 minutes as he took a well needed rest, and then emmett take a whipper and start to jug up a rope was utterly tedious. It reinforced my opinion that one good reason that climbing shouldn’t and probably won’t be an olympic sport is that it is rather dull to watch.

If I remember the early live outside broadcasts like the one at Gogarth featured many teams of climbers all on different routes. Meaning that any dead time was filled with other live action. Rather than back stories and other accumulated footage. I commend anyone who can say that they managed to watch all 5 to 6 hours of the programme. It is neither Dave or Tim fault, they are larger than life, and extremely talented, however to expect to ‘capture’ a live first ascent then the devil is in the detail, and I would expect only the dedicated to persevere.

I thought it was interesting that the route heralded as one of the top 10 routes of its type in the world (what were the other ten?), when for those who have seen the original Al Hughes film Stron Ulladale, that captures a few climbers attempt to climb ground up a new free route on this cliff captured the spirit of climbing far more than this route. I don’t want to get into any arguments about the style of ascent the climbers were very honest about the pre-practice. However, a bit like the films Equilibrium or E11, the ‘Story’ wasn’t the actual ascent of the climb, but the path that lead to it, the mini triumphs and the tragedies that build up to the ascent.

Personally the The Great Climb seemed to lose this, or the story being told vicariously through a team of commentators just didn’t engage me. The ocassionally lame efforts to explain what exactly climbing is about or even the ability to show what trad protect is were to me poor. Given that I have to explain how equipment works to beginners probably made me over critical.

Anyway the 5 hour ‘experience’ is on iPlayer for a few more days. Although I live in hope that they will one day make a ‘Directors Cut’, so I can manage to see the edited highlights. I would be interesting to see the viewer numbers, as compared to even the 30000 hits (Sorry, Jack posted a comment UKC have 700000 hits a month, fuck thats a lot!) a month that UKC has is tiny compared to TV audiences that are measured in Millions rather than thousands.

Maybe I missed the catch in the last three hours, that would have hooked me, and revealed the point of the broadcast. I am not sure whether this will have done a service or not for climbing. Will people be running out to the local wall to follow in Dave and Tim’s footsteps, I don’t know. From what I have heard the climb was completed successfully, and congratulations to both Tim and Dave, it must have been a marathon effort (or a double marathon if the commentators are to be believed), not to mention the added stress of performing infront of the cameras whilst producers are hurraying them along.

Anyway I wonder what they got paid for the ascent? They deserve every penny, but I am under no illusion, these guys are professionals that should be paid for putting themselves through such an ordeal. I just wonder how many people think their TV Licensing fee was put to good use?

Well I have been a busy boy so far this week. I managed to sell my van that required me to clean it for the first time in three years! I have also managed to enjoy some of this summer weather we are enjoying at the moment. With ascents of Cemetry Gates, Left Wall, Ribstone crack (Twice in as many days as I got some one to lead it on a rock improver course), Elidor and Skylon.

I also managed a quick Slate hit one afternoon as well. In between I have done a bit of work. I worked my last two days for the Brenin this Saturday and Sunday. I had the graveyard shift of the only 5.30 session on the sunday night. I managed to hold in my emotions, as I have worked there as a freelancer for five years, and have been there most weeks. It will seem weird moving on to another centre in another country, but I am looking forward to the change and the challenge.

I have to say that I was quite sad leaving the Brenin on both Sunday and Wednesday, as it is not only the work, but more importantly to me the other instructors and staff at the centre. At the moment I feel like I am leaving my freinds. However the world is a small place, not as small as Llanberis but one thing I know is that however long I am away for the village will hardly change, people will still be going to work, the kids will be going to school or nursery.

I saw my friends kids today, it was some of their firsts days at school, they are all growing up so quickly. I know I am going to miss them as well.

Anyway I must get back to packing, as I have two places to store some stuff, a small place at a friends where my computer and other important stuff can live and stay dry, and another place in a shed, that will house less important stuff. I am toying with the idea of throwing all my clothes away, as some of the t-shirts I have could be carbon dated due to their age.

Anyway, trying to work out what to take with me when I need a rack, rope (one single or two doubles?) and other climbing gear, as well as a some clothes. Any advice on what not to take and what I should consider essential would be greatly appreciated!

On top of all this I am waiting to see the first real copy of my book that should be about late this week or next week.

I know it is a little early, but I am so excited about the latest website I have been developing that I want to tell you about it. The site is still under construction, however there is enough content on there for you to see where I am heading. The site is basically the work I had managed to do so far on a selected guide to North Wales. I was very close to signing a deal with the guide, and I have to apologise to the publisher for letting them down.

The future for me seems very bright, and I am not sure whether I will return to the UK for long enough to complete the project, so rather than have a half finished book that sits on my computer, I thought that I would buy a dot com and offer it out to the public. Who knows one day it might well become a book. If not I hope it becomes an excellent resource for you guys to enjoy.

I can hear the CC, RockFax and Ground Up fearing the idea of an online guide and I await angry phone calls (please note I am working this weekend so will be unavailable to rant at until after 7pm). I however see it as a fantastic opportunity to put North Wales on the Map, as well as promote the growing number of excellent guides to the area. I also believe that an online resource is no replacement for a paper and ink guide. It is however another form of information that rather than just telling you about an area like virtually all other online resources, this site actually gives you the instruction to experience it and write your own stories. The site contains many of my favourite routes, and I will undoubtably add to the site over time.

What this site is not is a wiki, I can allow selected people to ‘author’ and ‘edit’ the site, and given my spelling and habit of meaning right and typing left, means that if you are a devoted north wales climber with a computer maybe you can help out? I am also short a few crag shots that if anybody manages to take whilst they are out and about, I would be extremely grateful for the images so I can turn them into topos’s. I am also keen to see if any manufacturers, shops, magazines, distributors or heaven forbid publishers would like to come on board and help support the running of the project by advertising on the site.

To see the content you’ll need to set up an account, and I am insisting on real names I am afraid, and will block users who don’t abide by this rule. The info is there for you print out for your own personal use only, under no circumstance should the images be replicated in anyway in print or online form, unless you want a bill for £500 per image. Basically I don’t want you cutting and pasting my work to your own site, as taking the photos and turning them to topos has taken a considerable length of time. If you want online/digital media, then look at this site as my CV, as I am available for freelance photography and writing.

I do have to give a massive thanks to Scott, who has done some amazing work, if your saw my blog post recently, then I can admit now to spending three days trying to get joomla to run on my hosting server. I was totally at my wits end and Scott offered to help, and about 30 minutes later it was up and running. About 12 hours later, and I had virtually broken the site again, and Scott clicked a button and made it work. He has probably kept me from hitting my computer with a large stick, as time after time the ‘computor says Noooo!’

I have seen signs spread across the length and breadth of Snowdonia for the sale of the century. One inparticular was on a footpath sign just by the Brenin. It was so small that I doubt any motorist saw it, as cruising past at a walking pace only 1 of my group of five saw it!

Anyway they are talking of 95% off items that are in the sale and 50% off other stuff. I can’t remember if there was any small print. Even so there is obviously going to be some serious bargains. Unfortunately I am working!

Just ran up the starting five pitches of Sunchaser wall in Vivian. It was good to shake off the cobwebs from a month of near continuous rain. Was great to touch real rock again. May well go to the wall this evening with Katie for more pre-Nose training, unfortunately the Welsh Summer has really put a dampner on climbing (pun intended!)