For once there wasn’t a million teams getting some after work action on the cliff. There was though one team on the route Katie wanted to lead so I nipped up Brant Direct. I say nipped up, what I mean is worked my way up as confidentally as possible, as it is always a fight, but still a great route!

After that Katie try SS Special, unfortunately Katie doesn’t do too much leading so was pumped out by the final roof, so ended up doing what I dub the SS Sickle. I guess we can sometimes forget that if we don’t lead for a while then it becomes ever harder.

One of the reasons we headed up there was in memory of a great friend that we both shared many routes and memories with. This song is for him.

An overview of Dinas Mot

Well almost, I should perhaps start from the beginning of my long story with The Nose of Dinas Mot. The routes, the climbers, the good times and the suffering.

Way back in 1995, I sat down and choose a university, it had to be close to climbing, it had to have mountains. Sheffield and Leeds only covered one of those bases, the University’s in Scotland are a reasonable distance away from both the climbing and the mountains, but Bangor seemed to have the best of both worlds, so I found myself enrolling on a degree in Environmental Planning and Management, and for the next three years I went out of my way to climb as much as possible, probably to the detriment of my studies, but I got the climbers degree a Desmond Two Two.

The first week I arrived I met a guy called Tom, we are still friends to this day, and managed to get about one or two routes a year climbed together, and I try to visit him in Pembroke under the guise that I will go climbing with him, when really all I want to do is borrow one of his many surf boards and annoy any surfers with my total lack of skill.

With Tom in that first year we did nearly all the VS’s, HVS’s and E1′s on Dinas Mot. Learning the ropes as we went along, and ticking all the classics that the cliff has to offer. I’ll never forget the first time we did Superdirect, as that last pitch still puts the fear of god into me, so steep and powerful for E1, but as I have become well aware all those top pitches are the same.

Intermittent journeys across this great steepening slab of rock has lead to a few more routes, and then I kind of forgot about it for a while, until I got better. Returning with Pete to climb Stairway to Heaven a thin E3, with a top pitch that made Superdirect look like a veritable walk in the park. Then it was GBH, and aptly named crack pitch that is as intense as it is short lived.

I then went up there with a young Leo Houlding, when he was working the route that became known as Trauma, and it was a fitting name, as we headed up there the wind was utterly biting. Sat on the ledge on belay duties it was horrendous. At one point I had so many jackets and hats on, I must have looked like a orange ball balanced on teh ledge from the Cromlech Boulders.

A few days later at it was Leo’s turn to try and lead it, up he went to fiddle in the wire before he down climbed back to the ledge and we bounce tested the runner. A quick run round to the gully to get out of the wind and some jumping jacks to warm a now frozen body and Leo was back up there. Four times he took the fall that day, the last time I clearly remember him way above the crux with a move to a backhand, on top-rope he had done it easily, however on lead, pump he could get to it. If it had been a flat hold he would have used a bit of power to slap it, but as a backhand he couldn’t.

The wheels fell off his wagon, and I can remember him being scared for the first and only time I can remember in all the time i climbed with him. High on the Mot, with the potential of hitting the ledge if the gear rips from about 50ft, even I was gripped as he plummeted from the rock. Every time we went there he offered me a go, but I always turned him down, mainly because I feared that I might have been able to do the moves, then I might end up where he was!

There was one route left on the Mot that was going to be a problem, Truncheon Meat, at E6 I was never going to lead it, but went up there with Caff and Tim one day, and after a bit of team work, mainly caff strength to reach the first runner, then Tim’s reach to get another and it was in the bag so I waddled up it on top-rope.

I have a great memory of my personal climbing day on my MIA assessment, Ollie the assessor had taken us to the crag, and simply said can you do pick a route you haven’t done before? Well, no, as that’ll be Trauma, I can do one I haven’t done for ten years though.

Unfortunately I was wrong, there was another route on the Nose of Dinas Mot that I had yet to climb, and it was a feature that for a while now I have really liked the look of, the arching groove between Trauma and Direct Route, it is taken by Crossties, a rather esoteric HVS, it only gets a star, but if you skipped the first pitches and only climbed the final groove it would be worth 2 at least.

I can say that now, because today I headed up in the sun, as the only real time to climb on the Mot to be honest is in a heatwave, and climbed it. There were no fireworks at the top, no champagne, just another day, another route and another experience on this great cliff. I guess most people will say, well you never climbed Trauma, and you’d be right, but I have to say those few days on belay duty, in the freezing cold watching Leo take horrendous falls, was at least worth 7 or the 8 E points it now gets, as them were the days before everyone realise you can get a good pecker below that lonely wire

Anyway we did the usual cromlech boulders circuit, we both looked to be on fine form, which is alway good when you start to feel your age!

Llion on the Boulders

The lightness of Being!

Unknown climber styling the Heelhook Traverse

If you are interested in going on any of these awards then you can contact Andy via his homepage.

Single Pitch Award Training Courses are two days in length, based in Northern Snowdonia and are non-residential. Candidates should be registered with the SPA scheme and have gained the required experience. The fee is £125.

Single Pitch Award Assessment Courses are two days in length, based in Northern Snowdonia and are non-residential. Candidates should have completed the requirements to attend the course. The fee is £125.

Mountain Leader Award Training Courses are six days in length (two three-day modules), based in Northern Snowdonia and are non-residential. Candidates should have registered with the ML scheme and have gained the required experience. The fee is £325.

Mountain Leader Award Assessment Courses are five days in length, based in Northern Snowdonia and are non-residential. One trial course is split over two weekends; the rest are of a continuous block. Candidates should have completed the requirements to attend the course. The fee is £325.

Climbing Wall Award Training Courses are two days in duration, based at both an indoor climbing wall and an outdoor climbing wall, and are non-residential. Candidates should have registered the CWA scheme and have gained the required experience. The fee is £125.

Climbing Wall Award Assessment Courses are one day in duration, based at an indoor climbing wall and is non-residential. Candidates should have completed the requirements to attend the course. The fee for the standard assessment is £85 (£95 including the abseil & top access module).

Single Pitch Award Training 2011

29^th and 30^th March                                                T1

28^th and 29^th April                                                T2

24^th and 25^th May                                                T3

28^th and 29^th June                                                T4

26^th and 27^th July                                                T5

23^rd and 24^th August                                                T6

27^th and 28^th September                                    T7

1^st and 2^nd November                                                T8

29^th and 30^th November                                    T9

Single Pitch Award Assessment 2011

4^th & 5^th May                                                            A2

26^th and 27^th May                                                A3

30^th June & 1^st July                                                A4

28^th and 29^th July                                                A5

25^th and 26^th August                                                A7

29^th and 30^th September                                    A8

3^rd and 4^th November                                                A9

1^st and 2^nd December                                                A10

Mountain Leader Award Training 2011

4^th to 6^th and 25^th to 27^th March            ML.T1

15^th to 17^th April & 6^th to 8^th May            ML.T2

8^th to 10^th & 22^nd to 24^th July                        ML.T3

2^nd to 4^th & 23^rd to 25^th September            ML.T4

11^th to 13^th & 25^th to 27^th November            ML.T5

Mountain Leader Award Assessment 2011

14^th to 18^th March                                    ML.A1

9^th to 13^th April                                    ML.A5

14^th & 15^th May and 3^rd to 5^th June            ML.A2

17^th to 21^st October                                    ML.A3

14^th to 18^th November                                    ML.A4

Climbing Wall Award Assessment 2011

7^th April                                                 CWA1.11

Rescue in Frey!

I recent read a thread on UKC. I was very bored and drunk in a bar in Santiago, and sadly there were no stewardess to look at. Anyway the threads starter stated a firm belief that WE shouldn’t speculate over the causes of accidents, and the well quoted argument that it helps use avoid future accidents just isn’t a valid excuse.

I have to disagree with this stance on several levels. First on a professional level, it is now common practice that through a forum like the Heads of Outdoor Centres, AMI, BAMG or other networks that near misses and accidents are reported and share, precisely for the common good and to help avoid further similar accidents.

“It is the risks you don’t know your taking that are likely to kill you” old instructor proverb!

Even near misses are discussed at length at virtually any outdoor centre where I have worked. Where an open and frank discussion explores possible ways to avoid the incident in future. I really think that many people would be surprised at what some people see as near misses in a teaching rock climbing setting, the important thing is, is that the instructors are staying current and learning about mistakes that have happened to other and taking those lessons and applying them to there own work.

The classic analogy is an iceberg. 9/10^th of it are hidden under water, these are all the near misses and close calls. For every one fatality, there is a presumption that there will be 10 very close calls and up to 100 or more near misses. If we only look at the 1 fatality then we totally miss the opportunity to learn from those 100 or more other incidents, one of which may have prevented that one fatality.

To me it is a no brainer, if I apply that to my work life, why shouldn’t I apply to my personal climbing. Over the past 15 or more years I have climbed I have heard of and speculated over many incidents and accidents, some minor, some major and some with fatal consequences. I have done this in the pub or at the wall with friends, I tried to work out what could have happened rather than what did happen, as there are often more than one possible cause.

My point is that I have done this way before I ever joined a rescue team, so why should I change now. What has changed since the first time I saw or heard of an accident is the way in which that information is conveyed. Now we have blogs and internet forums. Quick media with a rapid turn around. I can see why it leaves a bad taste in many peoples mouths as sometimes the next day or even that night news can propagate across the world wide web.

What do you think? Should we dissect an incident and find the anatomy of an accident?

The Ferryglide!

Well I was reminded of Eddie Izzard when I saw this on the last crag in Bariloche we visited. We ferryglide, they ferryglided? It was awesome the ferry could get across the river in 5 seconds just by altering the pitch of the vessel. Of course kayakers know all about this but done on this scale it was very immpressive. Anyway the crag was good too! The last pictures in the following sequence was very surreal. I can’t remember if I have posted them all ready, but the playmates got my approval!

Walking to the crag

Thomas follows me up a F6a+ groove.

A lovely F6a tower

Ian takes a rest on a F6b!

Not what you expect on the side of the road!

Hmmmm! Lovely!

Reflections of Frey

Well I have been back from Frey for a while now. The climbing is totally world class, the rock solid and great for free climbing, despite the sandbagging grades, it is a spot that I cannot recommend highly enough. Just book a flight and take a sleeping bag and a rack, and stay in the amazing refugio, oh and climb till your fingers bleed.

I have been back at Base Camp completing endless evaluation sheets, giving feedback and winding up the course. I have one more debrief with the Bosses later today. After that I have a few days before I start my flights back. I can’t lie, at times the course has been hard, but I did come straight from a climbing holiday into a 6 week climbing course. My time has been enjoyable though, although I can’t wait to get back home and see my good friend, and share a well deserved pint in the Prince.

I feel l the girl in the Wizard of Oz, all I need is my ruby slippers. “There’s No Place Like Home, Theres No Place Like Home”, although writing it down like that I am reminded of the shining. “All Work and No Play Makes Jack a Dull Boy,…………….”. So just be prepare Llanberis because here come Johnnie!

I have one more selection of picture to put up here. It was from the day after we left Frey. So I will try and get them online ASAP. Till then don’t have nightmares!

The final splitter crack on Deirdro Jim

The deirdro Jin is a line that Jumps out at you. A perfect corner, leading to an amazing splitter crack. We had spied the line on our first day. I was on the thrid that I took 4 of the group up there. Yes Four! I lead two on the group up, whilst Ian lead another. The route was as good as it looks and actually reasonable for the grade. We left a bit early as the bottom of the route was in the shade. However the top despite being a bit windy was as good as it looked from the ground.

Ian on the top pitch of Dierdro Jim

M2 is one of the smaller towers in the foreground.

M2 was a great little tower, although I virtually circumnavigated it looking for the easy corner. Eventually I had to admitted that the only corner on the tower was the ‘easy’ one and tuck my skirt in and climb it. We also saw some guys climb on an adjacent tower.

A local climbs on another tower

Tyler Seconding on M2

Ian leads up on my gear.

Tyler and Ian Finishing M2