Llion lead the first pitch that was wet and horrible, and then I had the delights of the top two grooves. Stepping round the corner the gapping abyss below, I fiddled in a wire from  the ledge and went to move up and round to a better hold and another wee ledge and the gear falls out. Next time I should remember not to place those wires blind!

This of course inspired me with confidence, so preceeded to shake my way up the crack to the ledge. Then move left into the base of the hanging top groove, at least this time I got the right wire first time! Anyway, I battle my way up and got to the belay. I have to say that I was probaby still feeling the effects of the weekend of partying, but I was also filled with dread from when the words ‘Hangover” came through on the text from Llion, and I am pretty sure I was climbing defensively because of it.

Anyway I borrowed a crash pad last night, so went to go bouldering today. I managed a quick Cromlech circuit, but I left my chalk bag at home so came back when I started greasing off even big handholds. The weather looks like I moght turn dramatic later, as black clouds seemed to be lined up

Its almost like we feel that there is only 1 hour left to boulder before the world ends. All good though although trying to climb for longer than that hour is impossible as you are totally spent.

Finished up and headed to the Heights which is under new management. It has been open a week, but its the first time i had been in there. Its very nice and the cleanest i have seen it for years. Beers not cheap, but its not cheap anywhere!

I think a few of us are going to start heading there every thursday. To try and support what was once the centre of the Llanberis climbing universe.

Pete Robins attempting the big link across the Sheep Pen Boulder wall V11, here he is shaking out on Dog Shooter

Headed up to the sheep pen t0day, a lovely bouldering site above the Nant Ffrancon in the Ogwen Valley. Tine was short as Pete had to do some chores in the morning, and I had to be back before school finished to pick up a friends kids to babysit. So we headed straight to the main event, and despite me think I wouldn’t be able to climb out of a wet paper bag, I managed the two up lines on the right of the wall.

Whilst Pete was trying to do the massive V11 link from one end of the boulder to the other, I tried the shorter V7 link into Dog Shooter. I was gutted as I narrowly missed the top hold on a couple of attempts. It was good to get pumped and pull down hard on holds though. Pete looked as on form as ever, as the link is very tricky, at one point he seemed to be running sideways across a V8!

mini topo of the wall

Anyway we did the usual cromlech boulders circuit, we both looked to be on fine form, which is alway good when you start to feel your age!

Llion on the Boulders

The lightness of Being!

Unknown climber styling the Heelhook Traverse

Anyway, there are now 9 new problems from me and a few routes from Streaky.

Tomorrow I have an admin day, including sorting my kit out for scotland round two, picking up washing, trying to get to the conway centre to fill in a eRCB form (Enhance Police Disclosure for working with Young People), it seems that you have to fill these in about a thousand times, one for each centre at what seems like every year. After that I am not sure what I’ll do with my day, other than rest.

Looking into Pen Y Cil,

On my way back down last night, I was asked wether I was keen for the Lleyn, Hell Yes! I have been walking around for too long, and I needed a climb like a junkie needs crack. Its just that the crack was looking for is more socially acceptable!

So we went for a VS and some V grades, in a king of V for Vendetta kind of a way, we worked out that Gullimots Groove on the VS stood for a very nice pitch follwoed by a very scarey one. I got the scarey one on a kind of medium that I can only best describe as a cross between playing giant jenga and rock climbing.

We then head to Porth Ysgo, were we reminded ourselves that we are as young as we once were. Although Llion and Katie have obviously been secret training as he flash popcorn party, and Katie did the Incredible Shacking Woman from a stand up. As for me after what seems like months without bouldering I manage to climb Jawbreaker V5. How do I feel now? sore!

LLion is up on the cliff somewhere, although a bit like stop the ball!

Llion on Gullimots Groove - Pen Y Cil

Katie powers up the Gullimots Groove

Topping out in the Sun - So unscottish it felt good!

Llion on the Porth Ysgo Classic - Closer V3?

Easy Slab at Porth Ysgo

Dirty Porth Ysgo crimpers

Classic Slopey Mantelshelf

Another Porth Ysgo Classic, I really need to dig out that old Guidebook sometime

Katie having it on The Incredible Shaking (Wo)Man

Llion on The Incredible Shaking Man

Jaw Breaker *** Classic

Funky Holds on Popcorn Party

A fine position

We called in at pen y ceunant cafe on snowdon for free brews. A very welcoming place, and for the uni crew I used to climb with who lived there. A return visit will be quite surreal, as the place has been overhauled. I’ll get a link up when I am on the computor.

Anyway after training I headed to the wall for some plastic pulling. My word it has gotten hard. Both llion and katie burnt me off, so time for some secret training!

I also vaguely remember agreeing to attempt the llanberis triathalon last night. I was even offered a bike! Hopefully everyone was drunker than me!

The Buttermilks was ace, I did a fantastic problem called something like Flying Boy Arete V5, although it might be a V4, as got it third go. Fell off the end of the Iron Man Traverse, trying to match the lip a few time. All in all though a good little session. As climbing run out 5.8 slabs does little for your ability to bear down and throw for holds.

I have a selection of images for you.although I nearly lost them. I will have to reformat the SD card I think.

Milky Way and Bishop Sky at Night

Night Sky

More scenery

PeaBody Boulders

Unknown Wad attempting Mandela

Bishop's gnarliest V2???

This guy fell off, much to his annoyance, although not because he failed, but he knocked his beer over!

Someone on Flying Boy Arete V5 or something

Pea Bodies, check out the tiny people looking at the hardest highball in the world??!!

A Gargolyle guards the entrance to the Sad Boulders

Great to be back climbing, although I have to say the shade is a must at the moment, as during the main part of the day it is still a little too hot. But whose complaining, as I can read and sunbathe at the same time. Will try and get some piccies today and tomorow.

Anyway, my time is running out and I have to get out. I have to say thanks to Mick Ryan Bishop destinations article on UKC, as it has been great in reminding me where the crags are. Although at the moment The Pit campsite, Yes just as bad as it sounds, is closed!

I seem to have a habit of changing my websites on a regular basis, this time I choose to try and teach myself how to use joomla based web site to up grade my coaching and instructing site snowdonia mountain guides. It is still under the Life in the Vertical domain, but I plan to set up the independent .com eventually. These thing do take time.

I also plan to move much of the information from my climbing coach blog to the site, so I can set it up as some attached articles. Hopefully masking it easier to browse than searching through the archives of the blog. Anyway, as ever I appreciate feedback, and bookings!