Splits Tips, Talent and Training

So I have been doing more climbing than surfing recently, to the extent that I was back to winter form at the beacon. However all that training has meant I split a tip, not worn through to nothing but one of those annoying tears across. I have been religiously super gluing in shut for as long as possible and had several intense sanding session. Harsh as it sounds it is the best medicine, if i patients is not your thing.

So instead of boulder I have been using the rings and peg board. It is funny how easy it is to see progress in raw strength when there is no technique involved. For most people focusing on good footwork will be far more beneficial than getting strong, but at least I can use these with a split tip.

This evening it was apparent that all the training in the world wasn’t going to get me real talent. I once read a story about ‘pedigree’ in climbers. Suffice to say tonight there was a top dog in and I did ask him nicely if he could make some of the problems look hard as he waltz across a V8, with less effort than me on a V0 warm up problem. He then headed to the routing roof, where he probably tore up a few F8 grade routes before joining us in the pit of despair looking like we were about to bust a blood vessel trying to do a dip on the rings!

Anyway, it made me wonder how boring it is when every problem is easy?

As for training it looks like I am going to have to work core and conditioning over the next week or so until the finger sorts itself out!

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