Years ago now I was out exploring the slate for some new routes up in Lost Worlds, I was still at University the first time round. The internet was still dial up connections and bulletin boards. Web 2.0 was probably only just being invented, whatever that is. On that one walk I saw two figures moving slowly up to a prominent groove over seriously loose terrain. I recognised them as Martin Crook and Ray Kay two legends on the slate. I later learnt it was ticks groove, the sun was out so I sat down and watched. Martin moved at a snails pace and they eventually abseiled off.
The line is named after the late great Paul Williams who’s nickname I think was the tick. As he had an insatiable appetite for ticking routes and recording them. He produced a selective guide book to now wales that was my bible in Uni. I’d like to think he’d the latest offering for North Wales selective guides that I have been working on.
Anyway Tick saw the line in the 1980s after he got hooked on the slate, after initially dissing it. The line has been know of since then as Tick’s Groove, a ground up project as there are holds and gear all the way up it.
Yesterday I knocked together a few webpages for James McHaffie for the coaching awards he is a provider for and James asked if I’d like to come along for an attempt today. Looking the routes looked a little damp. Caff was undeterred so Alex Mason lead the first pitch of E3 5b looseness, where you navigate fridge sized blocks to get to a small ledge below the main groove, that thankfully has a short steep wall offering some protection for falling rocks.
Caff heads up and on, we can see from here that the rock isn’t just damp but running with water and any normal person would have backed off. But caff just kept forging on upwards. Apologising for his slow pace but on reflection, well based on me having to french free the pitch, seem positive quick. The fact he managed to make upward movement left me somewhat perturb. It felt technical 6b and quite sustain today, maybe easier in the dry but I am not sure the crack would ever be moisture free, a extreme version of cloggy’s drainpipe crack. Caff then nipped up the final 6a pitch having hauled Alex and I up the main pitch.
Looking around Mordor and the Lost World I almost forgot that I have climbed on seven first ascents in the area over the years. This was one of the more out there experiences second only to my ascent of the Coolridge Effect, which was a route at my limit at the time.
Anyway it was great to be part of the first ascent team on this long standing project and even better to see caff perform in suboptimal conditions.
