Some recent climbing and belaying

Caff working the Meltdown Project in Twll Mawr

I have managed a few days out this week. A brief evening on the Cromlech Boulder, although my elbow isn’t up for too much of that at the moment. So it was only a short session. I then managed to meet up with Llion for a trip to the slimestone. Pen Trwyn was shut for a triathlon, so we headed to Penmean Head. We did about 5 routes before it started to spit so we headed back.

The next day I got a call from Caff for some belaying duties in the quarries. Which was almost as epic as the last time I belayed him. Mainly due to the approach, which involves a knarly exposed traverse to get to the alcove, before you abseil into Twll Mawr and traverse along and up to a belay below the Meltdown.

This route is a long standing project in the quarries and was first tried by Johnny Dawes a long time ago and partially abandoned because a hold fell off making it near impossible. There was talk of johnny recasting the hold out of bronze and returning the route to how it was. Fortunately the logistics of casting a bronze hold meant that the project remained unclimbed.

Caff had been on the route a few times and had found a sequence to do all the moves, making it possible but almost impossibly hard. Sunday he had a few goes on a long hard link on the part of the route that was dry before getting psych to return as soon as possible in the hope that it dries.

Anyway there are two pictures one from Penmean and the other from the Meltdown. I have tried to be arty with it. Not sure it works well, but I think it was the best effect I could have got with the lighting that day.

Yesterday I spent most of the day and evening in the Lagoons on Llyn Padarn cooking a whole lamb for my birthday. Had a good few freinds out for a feast that evening, was great to catch up with so many people, thanks if you came or sorry if you couldn’t make it.

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