Lleyn Climbing

Si Lake high up on Cripple Creek, Craig Doris.

I had rather an abortive day ‘climbing’ at porth ysgo. Actually was more just me lying in the sun with a hangover after getting too invovled in the highjinx in the Heights on Friday night. So I resigned myself to team photographer at chief of hogging the crash pads for sleeping purposes.

Llion, Katie and Matt climbed loads though. It was part Matt’s doing my state, although I was in the pub a few hours before him. Really good to see Matt back in the UK for a few weeks holiday. Unfortunately he doesn’t seem to have brought the sun with him!

Then today after looking at the metoffice new site, which to be honest is some ways is better than the old site, however in many more ways it is utterly uselesss. The animations freeze, the data takes much longer to load and a whole host of other bugs including patently wrong weather predictions.

Anyway Si thought Craig Doris was the place to be, and I couldn’t find a reason why we shouldn’t go there so we headed down to the looseness. Si fired up Cripple Creek, a lovely line that I climb a few weeks back. Still nice to get out in the sun. After that it was my turn, and having backed myself into somewhat of a corner at Doris with only hard routes remaining. I ummmmed and errred, before racking up for a ‘look see’.

Now first of all, I had forgotten to bring my rack, which would have help swell our number of cams. Something which many of the routes need down here. Secondly, we only had the Ground Up selcetive guide. Which I have done most of the routes I can do in. Instead I looked at a line with a short steep start and a slabby finish. With absolutely no idea what its called or its grade.

I errred again, this time on the side of caution, and took what I thought to be the easy line. Basically up the left edge of teh slab before move right towards its centre. This is either Corned Dog a Stevie Haston E3 or a variation on it. Although I ran out of gear, and had to belay just below the top, forcing Si to do the top. Great route though.

Llion climbing at Porth Ysgo
Llion Popcorn Party
Matt Perrier aka Ug slaping his way along some slopers.
Matt on the classic Popcorn Party
More Popcorn Party action
Matt Perrier on Jaw Breaker

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