Wall or real rock, that was the question, and faced with the choice I have to say that it would be real rock everytime. The weather has been pants though, but the rain held off long enough to justify heading out. So Llion and I headed up to Bus Stop Quarry, and as soon as we walked in the change struck us, the rock to the left of Fool’s Golds that has been bad for some time, has seen a reasonably significant rock fall.
Fool’s Gold looked unaffected so Llion headed up that, and low down there was very little difference, however as you pull through crux there has obviously been some movement, as the jug you pull on in the crack is a really loose, its not going to come out of the crack, but it moves which it never used to. The ledge you reached for at the end of the crux, has also come away from the wall a bit, and is now extremely hollow and booming, it might take a few years but it is destined to come off at some point, I just hope its not when someone is pull up on it. (Having pull the flake off the base of Solitice, I might leave this one for someone else to ‘make safe’)
Above the crack is similar, although it may have widened ever so slightly, and there is now a feint dip where the crack cuts back through the whole pillar. Now to be honest climbing it was fine, but Fool’s Gold days are definitely number! So if you want to vlimb it I suggest you get on it sooner rather than later.
After that we climbed Gnat Attack which is still a lovely climb, I much perfer this trad bolted style of the ‘old school’ slate climbing. Those new sports routes as you enter the quarry just don’t even inspire me to put a rope on anymore.
We finally went onto try a interesting new line. I now need to find a drill, two bolts and find the money for new rock shoes! All I am saying is crimp tastic! I’ll post some pictures to Facebook and Twitter.