A few weeks back, I was at the wall three times a week, and trying to get outside in between this, however a few Scottish hits for winter walking work, and a week down south visiting my mum have destroyed my guns, moving the limited amount of muscle my upper body had and moving it south to my legs.
So when I was invited to the Ormes, I first asked who’s going, second was how long you are heading there for? The reply came back with the answers I was looking for, that it was a small team looking for a quick hit, most of the team dropped out over the space of morning coffee, so it ended up with Me, Ollie and some lass called Emma, hence forth known as the pocket rocket. I knew Emma was fairly handy, but there is nothing like seeing with you own eyes a first class climbing performance.
I have climbed with many talented people in the past, Leo, Pete and James are just a few of the better people who have dragged me up the types of Extreme classics routes that you simply can’t pay for guiding up, as generally guides don’t climb that hard. As such I would like to think I have seen some big guns, firing on all cylinders.
Today we were having a look at Over the Moon direct, a F8a it might get a plus I don’t know as its on Slimestone. At the base seeing who’s going first, I looked at Ollie, Ollie looked back and shrugged. We both looked at Emma, and given the time constraints (the tide was coming in) it was decided (by us) that she should warm up on the route. She made quick work of it, and had a couple of rests before she kindly put the rope in place for the main event, Ollie and I top-roping the route.
I went next and where Emma had used technique and finesse, it soon became apparent that I was lacking both of these and strength and stamina and endurance and …. I was shut down by the crux, but glad to have got there and lowered off. Next up was Ollie, and after a battle and fight and a few ‘breathers’, he too topped out.
Emma’s proper redpoint attempt was next and it was an awesome sight, she’s a tenacious little $£@!)!!!, and as lovely as another female friend of mine Jude to watch, as the grace and subtle technique are just magical. As well as this there was some out right pulling which saw Emma get through the crux and to the last hard move, a fairly long one, one that beat her this time, but I doubt it will for long.
My next attempt I got no higher, but at least this time I set up for the crux, even if my body had a total reluctance to let go with my left hand to drop it into an undercut. Ollie followed, stripping the route in front of a small crowd of heckling climbers, who mainly had to point out he was stripping the pitch, after he had climbed past quickdraws.
Anyway, great day, thanks to Ollie and Emma for having me along. All I have to say is that I need to get up the wall a few more times to refind that form from three weeks ago, as well as get out more.