No the route not the drug, if you don’t know where this classic is it on the extreme left hand end of main cliff Gogarth, and is my 93rd route from the 1986 CC guide. 7 more to do before i reach the century.
The route climbs a steep overhanging chimney. Easier that it look, to where the chimney narrows, and gets hard. You then escape up the right wall on good holds, to att wild step back left into a hanging groove. After it steady away to the belay and the top.
After that we headed over to wen zawn so llion could climb quartz icicle. There was a large team from aberdeen who choose to avoid pabbay and head to wales.
Was great to be back in Wen Zawn, the pitch llion lead was easier than my pitch on heroine despite being a grade harder.
I then lead the stunning finale of dream of white horses. Another great day on the rock. Blue skies and strong winds, just like patagonia!