Month: October 2010

Well I am truly in the sticks, got to the end of the road and kept going. Been exploring Ibanez, about 2 hours south of Coyhaique. Its still sunny, and the wind has been switched on, its amazing as there is a constant roar due to the wind, sounds like a 747 if hovering above you. I now remember all those stories about the wind.

Anyway all the crags are on private land so I am spending much time with my guide Christian talking to the locals(well christian is, I stand there wondering WTF is going on). Anyway much drinking and trying to establish the rules of access.

Anyway I do have some pictures. I visited a crag today where there is so fine lines left. You’d just have to wait for a reduction in the wind speed. I decided not to look at the crag called the Tunnello Veinto (Wind Tunnel).

Anyway, the wifi runs of a mobile phone here, so very slow connection. Laters

Hi there is a link here to Ray Woods review of How to Climb Harder. Some good stuff.

For the record one of ray’s grippe was not knowing what the picture is on the front cover. If you read this Ray be prepared to kick yourself. Its Cenotaph corner, and sorry for the oversight.

Today I had a quick intro to the course, and started to put things in place that need doing. Jimbob you’ll be pleased to know I spent most of the day sorting through new climbing equipment, logging it and colour coding it. Not sure I could be as good a storeman as you though.

I then spent some time doing paper work, and chatting to Christian about the plans for the recce. We are heading out tomorrow for at least five days. The plan is to head south for two hours not that far, but teh dirt track will slow us down. We will look at all the various venues, and climb some of the routes to make sure we know where we are going to take the group.

Feels great to finally arrive at the centre and start getting my teeth into my new job. Ben and Jaya the owners are really supportive and super keen. Although I am worried that the the weather is going to be worse than I expected, but I am grateful I am not spending the majority of my time of the Icecap. Sounds like Scotland in a Hurricane up there. Still all the guys who had just got off where raving about there stories of adventure.

Finally this evening I managed to escape the BB house along with Jaya, NB one of the Ice Cap guides and my laptop. Hence I am blogging in Bursts. I am trying to write mini diary logs and adding them seperately, who nows I might even smell pheck them!

12^th October

I finally arrived in Coyhaique, pronounced co-he-key, as I discovered when trying to get on my final connecting flight. Which landed some 58km away from the actual city. My first impressions on coming into land, not knowing that I was so far away from the place, was one of desperation, as all I could see was grass and snow.

The wind as well, I mean its like they put the Patagonian Spur right out on a limb, with nothing to stop the relentless, and I mean relentless wind from reaching its full force, until it travels right round the world and just comes back at you. I have yet to check this fact on a map, but the base of South America seems to jut out into the middle of the southern ocean, atlantic ocean and pacific ocean, a real tri-vector as my American cousins would say, although when I left the UK I did here the Deputy Prime Minister use this and of course the triple lock phrase.

The centre is awesome, set off the main road is a small woodland, in both area and height. I only saw a few trees taller than 20ft, and most of them had blown over, again a clue about the wind!

A group had just return from what is already in my mind the epic place of the Patagonian Icecap. Full on gale force winds and driving rain repelled them for long enough to dry their kit, resupply before they head out again. For me its R&R, before I set about recceing the climb potential.

I have already seen the Kinsley of the area, and in my back garden there is part of the great ormes, and across the road is another buttress of rock that looks like it has its fair share of cracks and corners. Anyway Nuff said.

Well I have just arrive at Bogota Airport, can’t say that much about it. Just a building in the night. Although starting to feel overwhelmed with the fact that I don’t speak a word of spainish, other than gracias!

I do have to say that the free airport Wifi is a very good bonus.I suspect I am going to be goosed by the time I arrive in Coyhaique, as I have to fly through the night to get to Santiago, and then get on another internal flight to what seems like the very tip of South America. My geography is letting me down, although I blame all those maps from my school days that made every other continent other than europe look tiny.

Well, just been out o’ the lash in Santa Monica, only made it through 2 and a half hours of the three hours of an american football game. SPent most of my time randomly talking to the locals.

The best bit of the evening was watching some of Santa Monica’s finest apprehend a robber.

Robber, “You threatened my life”
Cop, “calm down and spread em'”
Robber, “You threatened my life”
Cop, “Calm down and spread em'”
Robber ” You threatened my life”
I have to say that the robber was quite threatening in his posture.
At this point Cop B, drew his num-chuck ready to have a go. I thought I was on for a good fight, when Cop A level the guy with a tazer.

Fuck me they are effective, robber dropped to ground and resisted resisting arrest.

Only in America, and I didn’t have to buy ticket.

Note to self, enver disagree with someone with a tazer, they look painfully. Although the robber was fully recovered two minutes later after he was in cuffs!

Sleep then flights!

Well, I am back in La La Land. In the Bayside Hotel Santa Monica. My favourite place to hang in LA, seeing as it is now my four stay over here. Got an upgrade on my room so currently looking out at the pacific from my balcony. Looking forward to arriving in Chile, where I have a night in Santiago before flying south again.

I finish the course on 14th Dec, so if anyone fancies a month in Chile, or across the border in Argentina then drop me a line.

Anyway I have to pack, which is going to be a mission. A 100m static rope already resides on a Picnic table somewhere in bishop, along with a big pan. I will probably have to throw one of the 60m ropes away as well.

Anyhoo’s off to look at a very big pile of kit and a not so large bag!

Well I have just finished three days of Bouldering, my arms are knackered, my finger tips worn through and my psych is high. I spent a day at the Happy Boulders, then the Buttermilks and then the Sad Boulders.

The Buttermilks was ace, I did a fantastic problem called something like Flying Boy Arete V5, although it might be a V4, as got it third go. Fell off the end of the Iron Man Traverse, trying to match the lip a few time. All in all though a good little session. As climbing run out 5.8 slabs does little for your ability to bear down and throw for holds.

I have a selection of images for you.although I nearly lost them. I will have to reformat the SD card I think.

I went up to some boulders yesterday, not sure if they were the happy of sad boulders. Whatever they were they were ace. I got up there early so spent a while doing some great highball easy line on my own. I then found a few people with a pad, and did some lower harder problems.

Great to be back climbing, although I have to say the shade is a must at the moment, as during the main part of the day it is still a little too hot. But whose complaining, as I can read and sunbathe at the same time. Will try and get some piccies today and tomorow.

Anyway, my time is running out and I have to get out. I have to say thanks to Mick Ryan Bishop destinations article on UKC, as it has been great in reminding me where the crags are. Although at the moment The Pit campsite, Yes just as bad as it sounds, is closed!

Just received this link from someone reviewing the book.

http://www.fionaoutdoors.co.uk/2010/10/review-how-to-climb-harder.html

Currently in Bishop, hoping to get back climbing, as soon as I finish up in STarbucks. Just have to remember where the crags are!