Sport to Trad Conversion Course

I had some great work with a couple of climbers this weekend, who were basically outdoor sports and indoor climbers who wanted to turn themselves into Trad climbers. As such movement and climbing wasn’t a problem but the different tactical approach and of course placing gear and extending it was. We spent Saturday at Tremadog and climbed Oberon, Boo Boo and Christmas Curry with a micah finish.

Bruce got four good leads in, and curbing his immense enthusiasm and trying to get him to slow everything down was the goal for the day. He quickly got an eye for gear placements and made great progress. We headed back and met back up for a beer and a chat at the Gallt Y Glyn. I left just in the nick of time, as the boys seemed to be ‘badly drawn’ the morning after. The 8am start soon faded into 9am.

We then spent the rest of the day at Little Tryfan, mainly because it would allow for loads of practice in placing gear, and extending it just right. I made them climb various eliminates, as it made it harder to plan where to extend gear and where not to. The pleasant easy climbing also allowed them to work off the pizzas from the night before.

I dropped them off at the train station, and they had the appearance of people who had both enjoyed themselves, yet rather exhausted. Anyway early night for me as I have two more clients turning up in the morning for two more days coaching, after that only one day of single pitch work for PYB, then I have some time off.

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