Climbing a Building Site

Australia East in Evening Light
Australia East in Evening Light

I’ve had a great few days, Thursday a short climb, a quick evening hit on Friday, a day at Tremadog on saturday ticking meshach, grim wall direct and to the cave on Vector. I then spent a bit of the evening watch Chopper Brian, unfortunately I had to leave before he went onto win it. God we’ll never here the last of it! I have to say I wasn’t surprised, he is very driven individual.

I got a phone call on Saturday, so had to go work today, although I did get out in the evening after spending the day getting some scramblers tied up in knots. We headed up to the top of Australia and climbed a few of the new routes there. Noel and team climbed a nice F6b on the Men at Work Slab, whilst I tried Glasgow Kiss an F7a+. It was a nice route although I failed on the crux and finished up the awesome arete of See You Bruce instead. Although on reasonable rock the crux looked ‘improved’ to make almost possible, although I am not sure it has the Redhead touch.

Llion did the light version of The Gorbals, basically having the first bolt clipped and leading the rest. It would be a good E5 still if you were going to climb up the bolt, although the sane people will go lite! This route is hidden gem and well worth the easy walk in from the garret road.

I then climbed a F6c slab on the right of the slab. it is this that made me utter the immortal words, its like climbing a building site after my boots kept getting covered in the dust that is left over from the clean. Which was just adequate, in places and over done in others. The crux had small holds that seemed to crumble under my feet, I wouldn’t be surprised if the grade changes. The amount of rock that had been cleaned of the top and the bottom was really truly a testamony to enthusiasm over quality.

The top clean may have loosen the top flake on The Gorbals, mainly because I don’t think the top was that loose when I climbed it, but both Llion and Katie mentioned it. I guess the harsh winter may have helped as well.

Anyway the light was amazing up there.


Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *