I went out towards the coast this morning, in an effort to avoid the wall of hate that was bringing rain and misery with it. The tide was low at 9.30 so we got to Llandudno for 10am with the aim of doing a few routes before the tide forced a retreat. So as a warm up we headed down the far end of the crag for the F5+ and F6a’s.
Now I find that compared to every other sport crag I have visited this crag is sandbag central especially on the easier routes. The F5+ feels like a good 6a to me and the F6a feels like it should have a plus after it, it probably does, but I forgot the guidebook, so I had to go by two majorly flawed judgements, firstly the look of the route, and secondly and even more unreliable my memory.
Anyway it looks like we started on Golden Pond F5+, then moved onto Skin Game F6a+, before moving onto Skin Deep F6a+, which looking up looked very steep and intimidating, however, as you start to climb you realise that all the tiny holds you have grasped in the previous routes have somehow morph into hidden monster jugs. The route is more stunning than I remember, but it has been several years.
The tide was at our heels by this point so I decided to try a route that I have never ever been successful on. At only 6b, when I have failed on it before I have gone onto flash The Pink Pinkie Snuffs It F7a and Night Glue F7a+. I felt warmed up and confident, and wasn’t even pumped when I reach the move onto the head wall that has alluded me . At which point I flailed about for a few minutes desperately trying to fanthom out the move to a distant hold, and then I gave up.
I guess I have a serious psychological block on this route, or my body simply doesn’t fit the holds! In the past the I might have taken a serious knock of confidence, however I know my height can be and issue on some routes, or that’s my excuse!!!