Month: November 2009

Gloves and Customer Services

Well as I mentioned before I have had a pair of gloves, that I used once in the rain and the sticky grip pads simply delaminated like a fish shedding its scales. In response to my gloves falling apart so quickly i contacted the manufatcurer and the shop I brought them from. My major bug bear with the gloves (Terra Nova Windy Sticky Gloves), was that they basically started to fall apart about ten minutes into there first fall day of use, almost as soon as they are wet. The second issue was that I was going to have to drive all the way back to the shop to replace them or post them and not have a pair of gloves whilst I wait for there return.

Cotswold the shop replied first apologising for the situation and offering a credit note for the cost of posting them in. As it was I got an hour off yesterday afternoon when working at Plas Y Brenin, so made the journey to Betws to return them. The member of staff who had replied to the email, basically refused to let me take a like for like replacement, as he hinted that the exact same thing will probably happen again, instead he sent me away with a pair of better gloves at the cost of the retail chain. A situation that I am more than happy with.

However it left the question of if this is a manufacturing defect then why are they still on sale in the shop? Similarly my reply from the manufacturer was insulting to say the least. The quote from there reply is “From the pictures it does appear to be wear and not a defect ?”. This is despite the fact that I informed them that they had been worn once for an hour walk round llanberis and six hours on a navigation course, where they held a map and a compass. I wasn’t like I had taken them scrambling in which case whilst I might have been disapointed with them falling apart the nature of scrambling means that they would be far more susceptable to wear.

So basically I was called a liar by the manufacturer who seemed to be very reluctant to accept that the product that they supplied me was simply not fit for purpose. So please be warned that reading between the lines from what Cotswolds said when I returned the gloves, and Terra Nova’s total lack of interest in seeing if there is indeed a problem with there product, as if I was a manufacturer I want to sell the best product i can, and see situations like this as a vital piece of user feedback, not dismissing them out right.

Anyway I would stay away from the Terra Nova Windy Sticky Glove for the time being. However the good part of the story is the customer care that i received from Cotswolds was par excellent

Classic Climbs: The Bardsey Ripple


Bardsey Island and an incoming Squall.


Martin Chester crosses the Bardsey Ripple

Hidden away at the end of the Llyn peninsular, looking out across to the remote Bardsey Island is a small crag that packs a big punch. Only 60ft high this compact and complex buttress harbours one of the best single pitch E2’s in Wales. It is the Rock Idol of North Wales, steep juggy and intricate. The rock resembles a classic loose horrorshow, however when climbing on it the rock feels far more solid than it looks. I have climbed the route twice, and would go back again and again, if it wasn’t for the magical mystery tour of sleepy hollows that leads along the extremely long and winding road.

The route takes a rising right to left traverse of the crag, following a quartz band as if someone had whitewashed the way to go. Today the sea was high to say the least when we got there so we opted for a high traverse line into the route starting up the Eyes Have it, before reaching the main streak of the Bardsey Ripple. The climbing is amazing, although a little damp today, and after making it across the first traverse Martin the allotted leader got caught out in driving rain, so an undramatic rescue later and we were all back at the bottom looking at our ropes that traversed half the crag.

As we dripped water, and watched waterfalls start running over the crag we thought the day might me up. Patience is a virtue, and given that it was the first day climbing for ourselves in ages we toughed it out, waited for the sun to dry the crag, and then lowered the leader back into the traverse and finished the route. We then climbed an equally steep E2 5b up the obvious right facing corner, although most of the climbing is on the largest holds in the known universe on the wall to the right. We finished the day as another squall looked like it was heading towards us, and made for the pub, and just reward.

You really should get down and try this E2, it is so good for a single pitch, and unlike many of the Llyn horrorshows, as it is reasonable solid and has gear. To me it has classic qualities, and reflects adventure climbing at it very best.

The Animals Queue in two by two

Well last night the rain was biblical, so heavy and relentless, that I had to change after walking back the 100 metres from van on the high street to my house, before I went to the pub. I had wondered what it was like up the pass the answer was devastating.

I drove up the pass to work this morning and there had been a pretty impressive landslide just by the cromlech boulders, that covered the whole road, and it was only passable by driving into a layby. Just above this was the evidence of an even more gripping ordeal. A caravan that had been parked in the Cromlech Boulders Layby, had been blown over the wall and into the river, where it was swept down stream, there had been someone in there at the time, but I believe they escaped safely, as the team was stood down for the rescue.
I think it is still there if you want to have a stare!
My day was good, teaching a day refresher for navigation at the brenin. It actually stopped raining and the sun came out for five minutes before it started raining again. Hopefully the rain will stop tomorrow and I can go climbing. Whoppie! Looking forward to handing my thesis in next week and getting climbing again. Anyway, my new gloves that had been so good on a cold day round the lake let me down today, to the extent that I will be reporting on them. Bascially the sticky padding simply fell off in the rain today, the second time I wore them. So looks like I have to deal with customer care from Cotswolds and terra nova next week! Which might be an interesting read as to how I get on with getting them replaced without having to drive back to the shop.

Light at the end if the Tunnel!

For what seems like months now, well in fact years to be precise I have been travelling down a tunnel that at the end will lead to me hopefully gaining an MSc in Applied Sports Science. I was interested to see that my college is now offering a MSC in this with (outdoor activities), now i am not sure how exactly they are going to offer the outdoor activities or a what kind of practical level. I should really ask a few questions when I am next in school.

Now finally I am seeing a light at the end of the tunnel as I have finished writing a final draft of the whole thesis. So hopefully by next week I will have it done and dusted. Whilst for most people that will result in a lot of free time. I have to move instantly onto my How to Climb Harder book project, to try and get the amendments in ASAP. If that wasn’t enough work then I also have the Slate Guide that i need to turn some attention, to as i have been very back seat driver for the last year due to commitments of work and school.
On top of all that I need to start to apply for some more freelance positions at a few places. Although i am looking forward to being able to head out climbing at the drop of a hat for the first time in a long time.
As well as finishing my first draft I also put a diagram on my coaching blog to show the Yosemite Hoist I demonstrated on the Big Wall Workshops.

Plas Y brenin: Expedition Symposium Photo’s

Here are a few images from the Plas Y Brenin Expedition Symposium held this weekend, some photos are by Pete Cattrel, on my camera others by myself. I have further information on the Big Walling workshop I ran on my coaching blog. I also have a diagram of the Yosemite hoist up there soon. If you have any questions on Big Wall Climbing then please post a comment on the coaching blog and I will see if I can help.
If you’d like to come on a two day Big Walling course then either look at the Brenin which runs a couple throughout the year, or alternatively I offer courses of a similar nature via my coaching website snowdonia mountain guides.

Glacial Travel Workshop: Pete Cattrell/MR Collection

Water Safety Workshop: Pete Cattrell/MR Collection

Stu McAleese says goodbye to the symposium members.

Rope work for trekkers workshop

Organiser of the symposium, Stu McAleese

Sport Climbing Trips workshop with James McHaffie: Pete Cattrell/MR Collection

Remote First Aid workshop. Pete Cattrell/MR Collection

Ray Wood’s Film and Photography workshop.

Expedition Nutrition workshop: Pete Cattrel/MR Collection

xpedition Nutrition workshop: Pete Cattrel/MR Collection

xpedition Nutrition workshop: Pete Cattrel/MR Collection

Expedition Nutrition workshop: Pete Cattrel/MR Collection



Glacial Travel Workshop. Pete Cattrell/MR Collection

Taking notes at my  BIG Wall Workshop: Pete Cattrel/MR Collection

Mark Reeves talks about nights out on BIG walls. Pete Cattrell/MR Collection

Aid Climbing Demo at BIG wall workshop: Pete Cattrel/MR Collection

Plas Y Brenin: Expedition Symposium


Well I have spent the weekend working at the Plas Y Brenin Expedition Symposium, which was a great priviledge to be asked to deliver the Intorduction to Bog Walling workshop. A reasonably tough challenge of trying to show all the additional skills as opposed to normal rock climbing that you need to scale a big wall like the Nose of El Capitan. Hopefully I managed to cover enough within the short time. Having heard some feedback, it really sounded like I managed to make the most of the 2 hours sessions and give people a really good idea about what they need to do to prepare themselves for natures biggest rock climbing challenges.

Other than my workshop I also went to see Ray Wood talk about film and photography on expeditions, which was great he talked a lot about the process and commitment you need to make to get the images you want. I certainly learnt a thing or two. There were workshops going on everywhere, and all manner of ‘experts’ from doctors lecturing of high altitude medicine and general Exped Health, right through to cooking, women issues, going light with Kenton Cool, rope work for trekkers, Getting the most from your GPS, Sports Climbing holidays, emergency first and even expedition planning. Everybody seemed to be buzzing who attended, all getting to attend several workshops and talk through there aspirations and dreams with a lot of experts who had been there and done that.

It was a really good weekend and a tribute to its organiser Stu MacAleese from PYB. Plas Y Brenin has got a paddlesports expedition symposium in February, if you are that way inclined, even if your not I am sure that many of the workshops will have content that is applicable to any form of expedition. Hopefully this will become a annual event. I will get some photos up from the weekend when I get round to uploading them, some were taken by Pete Cattrell, I will try and remember to credit him when I put them on the blog. I also have a diagram to put on my coaching site as well as possibly a video of my workshop.

Afternoon Physio Session

Well after climbing on Tuesday, and nearly being unable to walk as my knee locked up again, I decided to buy in some expertise, I managed to find my old NHS physio who treated my back a few years back, who has since started doing some sports rehab work. She called round the house and diagnosed a problem that involved my IT band, and various in balances between my hamstring and other muscles, and proceeded to stretch me out. Hopefully with a month rest I can get back to running again, albeit just round the lake.

I have a bunch of exercises to do to continue the good work she started, I will have to remember to call her in again if I pull my shoulder or something climbing, as it is very reassuring to get a professional opinion on the health of your body, especially when that body is responsible for powering me through my day to day work as an instructor.

The weather has been foul, here all afternoon. I was going to go up the wall later, but no sure I want to leave the house today, although I am in desperate need of milk for a cup to tea, but fear getting washed away, but all those hob-nobs and not a brew to wash them down, what on earth will I do?

Lost: One Marmot Hat!!!

Well, my nice warm hat didn’t last long, in fact under a month. I don’t know where I lost it. I suspect it was Burger King on the A55 on the way to see Andy Cave. What can I say other than £30 well wasted, and gutted that I now need to buy another one! I guess I need to become more careful with my stuff, however what can you do, I can’t remember how many hats I have lost this year, but I am approaching double figures.

Not sure whether to buy the same hat or go for something new?!

Maybe I need a hat sponsor!

Review: Andy Cave talk


Well I made it back from Rhyl (notice the correct spelling) after an evening in the company of Andy Cave, author and uber extreme alpine suffer and ex-miner. Now if you haven’t read Andy Cave’s first book Learning to Breathe this slide show was an overview of that book. Having seen Andy talk at LLAMFF earlier in the year I was not looking forward to the talk, as I was worried I was going to see a repeat performance, however in that talk he concentrated on his more recent adventures in alpine rock rather than Himalayan Super Alpinism.

Now I have never got around to reading his first autobiography, instead I had heard a few tales from his climbing partners, a few from the mouth of the man himself at various parties, and of course the climbing media. So it was good to have some more of these tales of growing up in a mining village near Barnsley. As well as his journey from the pit to the peak of mountaineering.
I personally find Andy one of the true greats of British mountaineering, a true believer in real adventure, he tackles sort of routes that whilst a few people may be physically equipped to undertake the challenge, there are perhaps only a handful that can combine that with the mental game of just what Andy has gotten up to.
Andy Cave’s style is something of the wild understatement, a polar opposite to the likes of Andy Kirkpatrick, who can make cutting your toe nails into a tale of epic yet comic distraction. Andy’s Northern charm seems to make the stories a simple happening. I did feel that for a non-climbing audience some of this would go over your heads. “Imagine descending a 900ft mining shaft” or “Imagine yourself high on this mountain”, now i have been underground and high on the side of a mountain, but not nearly as out there as he and his friends have been, so trying to imagine it felt impossible to me! 
For me the highlight was the Changabang story, I knew the tale from back when it happened, the death of Brendan Murphy, but had never heard the story from one of its tragic witnesses. Set as it was in this slideshow at the end of a long and adventurous life that had lead to this one point in time in one of the most committing places on Earth. No rescue, no help, alone and a long way to get back to base camp and safety.
This route is world class in terms of difficultly, 12 days out, only having taken 8 days of food, tired, exhausted, already people injured in your party, and only just descending to make a circumnavigation of the mountain, which is the only way to get back to base camp. To put it in perspective they had climbed one of the hardest alpine North Face routes in the world, had to then descend a the south face of the mountain from a col, traverse that face, and then ascend 6000ft to a col on the other side of the face, before descending to base camp. On the descent Brendan was washed over a ice cliff by a huge avalanche, and Andy had been only a few metres away out of the firing line of the flow. It was Touching the Void without the happy ending. Andy deals with it in a very matter or fact way, in fact too matter of fact from time to time, I was waiting for him to get excited or emotional about what he was doing, but he seemed to hide it well, or has probably form a way of mentally protecting himself as he has given this talk many times before.
Basically it was a very enjoyable evening out, nice pictures, great stories, however would I pay £13 to see him again? Probably not to be honest, because I have already seen him(twice), and if it meant going to Rhyl again, I would rather not! However is it worth £13, absolutely if you’d like to hear this man’s very unique and moving story. 
Maybe I am hiding my excitement a little or being too matter of fact about it. You should definitely buy his book if you haven’t or aren’t going to see him live, but remember to read between the lines, he is far more hardcore than he makes out. Thanks Andy for a great evening out.

There are only a few dates left of Andy Cave’s Learning to breathe tour details here