Crag of the week: Penmean Head

Penmean Head is a crag that thousands of climbers every year will have driven passed, probbaly think that looks like a pile of overgrown choss. However on closer inspection no all the rock has the look of what you see from the road. It took a team of locals several months of jungle clearence, cleaning, bolting and finally climbing to develop this crag.

Whilst many of the routes are possible best left to the locals, and certain limestone jenga towers avoided there are a handful of really good routes at this crag. I had almost forgotten about it after the gold rush nearly two years ago when everyone was there. At present there is still no guidebook to the area, however the deevlopment team are planning an A55 corridor guide. It was part of that reason that made me remember that I had taken some notes and photos when I went there.

At about four minutes from the A55, and a mere 30 seconds down hill from the car this crag is an excellent option if you have escape the weather in the mountains and are heading home early only to find the rain shadow around llandudno shining on you. I have provided topos for the best routes, as well as three not so good ones, they were however all that I climbed when I went there. There are in excess of 40 sports routes here now so a bit of investigation might well yeild some other ‘classic’ lines. What i offer is a taster.

Whilst the hardcore climber are raping the Diamond of all its projects, this crag is more sedate, and despite the proximity of the A55, you can barely hear it. What this crag offer at this time of year is the milder coastal weather. So perhaps it is time you got there or reacquainted yourself with the venue. It is even reasonably accessible to those people in Manchester, Chester and Liverpool

Getting there: Drive along the A55 and take the turning into Old Colwyn (North Wales Police HQ). Turn left at mini roundabout by the Police HQ along the old high street. The shops soon run out and you enter a wide road lined with residential building and hotels. An obvious fork off rights leads up towards Castle Inn, don’t turn off carrying up the hill for approximately 1/2 mile. At the top of the hill is a new estate and large layby with a public footpath marked down some steps. Park up and take these steps down to the crag which is immediately on your right.