Yet another beacon session,this time sampling the delights of Dave Noden’s problem that were set Monday, a few tough propositions, Meaning I now have two whites and two orange to complete a clean sweep of the aggregate so far. There wasn’t much in the way for the lesser man or woman set this week. I am sure that someone will be bending the managers ear, because they haven’t been able to climb anything.
It was a nice session, with Llion and team H. I had coffee with grandpa H today, which was interesting. He seems to share my opinion of the UK climbing press. Which is that it tends to repeat what we have already come to know weeks before on the internet, and often already seen a video of said ascent.
That or a article on Beeston Quarry (wherever the hell that is?), I have to say that it looked far from inspirational, but then again I live in the heart of Snowdonia and have more than a handful of classic crags within five minutes drive of my house, so why I would like to know about some obscure quarry or esoteric grit crag is beyond me. It seems that whilst climbing mags seem to have inspirational article and aspirational articles they lack those that are both inspirational and aspirational at the same time.
What was the funniest thing with grandpa H was he really believes that anyone who can only climb VS should commit ritual suicide, mainly through the embarrassment they should feel, and being unable to climb the stairs. Whilst not so militant in my views after all I take good money trying to help VS climbers improve on a regular basis. Grandpa’s point was that if 16 year olds are climbing 3 F9a in a week, then what the hell are we all doing wrong, when even a girl can climb a multipitch route with a couple of F8b pitches to warm up for the F8c+ final pitch.
I am crap as I can’t even climb F7c (the cavers grade apparently) let alone break into the F8 grades (The climbers grades), so my plan is to train, train, train, diet, train, diet and try harder than I have ever tried in my life, and hope to get a few redpoint ascents under my belt.
Anyway one of the best coffee afternoons I have ever been to!