Mark Reeves about to blow it on Private Smells!
So there I was stood on a good hold, looking back at the last bolt in the distance. I thought about the climbing I had to commit to to get that first bolt clipped, and here I am again, to my right is another good foot hold to get on, but the rock over seems totally committing. Like the first move, I knew I could clip from that hold once stood up, but looking back again the swing looks like it will be painful, as the slabs is cut off right below my feet.
I go back and forth trying to build up the courage to commit to the next move, each time I back off. I step up again just to check the holds, and accidentally check too well and my foot pops of the hold I was happily stood on, I am now committed to the rock-over. Shit, I have come on holiday by mistake again!
Lovely Summers Evening
Standing up I clip the bolt with the sort of relief you only get from those pseudo life and death moments. Stood on my little haven of safety I have a choice, head left bold to a bolt miles away or teeter further up to another bolt, harder but the bolt is closer. The guidebook was safely on book shelf, so there is no reading which is the easier line. One way is E5 the other E4.
I haven’t been climbing very much, but had just climbed the Madness E1 and One Step Beyond E3. I was hoping to climb the E4, but my desperation for another bolt lead me unbeknown at the time up the E5. As I battled the Simon and Michelle shouted encouragement, but the higher up I got the more my resolve dwindle. I eventually fell off after making a real gripper clipper of a bolt. My foot popping off a surprising polished hold for such an esoteric route.
I tried to man up a couple of times, but my mojo eluded me, I headed down happy to be alive, so if you want a free DMM carabiner it is hanging on the last bolt on Private Smells. Which apparently has some 6b climbing on it!
Simon Lake on One Step Beyond