Well I was was working again today, although not sure I would call it ‘work’ as such. In fact one of my clients asks what I did for my real job! Well surprise, surprise this is my ‘real’ job. Anyway I was working with three members of the Ceunant Moutnaineering Club, who had both myself and Andy Newton booked for some instruction/coaching.
What I did with my guys was a bit of an MOT in reality, they were doing things totally fine, so I gave them a few energy saving tips, but essentially they could all place gear and make a belay safely. So what they honestly need is the opportunity to practice. This has been highlighted by my study where the elite engage in climbing activity far more frequently than recreational climbers.
We ticked off a few of the usual routes, BoBo slab to start followed by Obleron and then with an hour left to spare we nipped up Christmas Curry. I managed to drop, well my belay plate unclipped itself when one of my guys flaked there rope out, that’s my story so I am sticking to it. So there a DMM V-twim at the bottom of Chrimbo Cuzza.
We climb until 5 which was nice as the weather held out, a rare occurrence not to be heading back to tea and medals at the institution. As a result my sugar levels are really low.
This evening Rob Greenwood came round to collect some Big Wall gear for Sam the tree man. People often ask if I worry about loan out gear. My guess is that I don’t having loaned a cam 1.5 to a total stranger yesterday to climb the Dervish and sent Sam away with a Haul bag, Portaledge and other big wall hardware. Although I have to say the Portaledge actually belongs to Kevin Thaw. He loaned me it a few years back. However he has turned down efforts for me to return it, as such I feel that with such pedigree, the ledge deserves to be up there on the wall as much as possible.
It has had more holidays that me. I think it has achieve new routes in Alaska and Patagonia since I ‘borrowed’ it. As well as the odd trip to Yosemite and elsewhere. Hopefully I’ll get it all back for my trip back to Yosemite next September!